Im ready to swap in another motor on my 87 4Runner 22re and was thinking of taking off the transfer case before pulling the tranny and re-install it after I put the tranny back in. Seems it would be easier to manipulate without the extra weight and off-balance situation when they are installed as a unit (been there done that). Is there anything I need to know with regards to bolting back on the transfer? Does the tranny or transfer need to be in any particular gear or anything like that? Do I just use a dry gasket or sealant? Any tips?

If the trans isn't getting swapped, either take it all out as a whole unit, or, unbolt the trans from the motor and yank it separately.
It really isn't too hard to balance the whole shebang.
I have done that several times. Easier than unbolting the t-case under the vehicle. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />

Ditto.....i would pull the tranny and transfercase as one unit but why would you want to pull the tranny to put a motor in?

Are you sayin that I should pull the engine/tranny/xfer as a unit? I thought I read here a while back that it is a problem getting the whole thing in and out as a unit. ( I will be in the driveway...no lift).

Honestly, I think it's less work to just unbolt the engine from the tranny and pull it out by itself. Pulling that out w/ a hoist is nice and easy, basically just forward a few inches, then straight up.
Doing it al las 1 peice is easier IF you are using a lift and have the front axle out, and dropping from below.

No, you are being asked why you would want to pull out the transmission when you are swapping the engine.
If nothing is wrong with the transmission, then leave it in the vehicle and ONLY pull the engine.

after disconnecting the tranny, leaving it 'in' or taking it 'out' is a matter of rolling it from under the truck on the jack or not isn't it? Maybe (probably) I'm missing something here...

If you just unbolt the tranny, then you don't have to mess with the shifter boot, t-case mount, driveshafts, etc. However, if you undo the t-case mount and drop it a little it can make getting at the upper bellhousing bolts easier. Lots of extensions and a good u joint help too.

If it is done in this manner, isn't it tough to get the replacement engine onto the splined tranny shaft during install?

Sorry a little hazey on that response. Unbolt the engine from the transmission at the bell housing. It is easier to undo the tranny mount to give you some more room to work with when re-aliging the input shaft. I usually just undo the eight bolts that hold it to the frame rails and leave it attached to the transmission than run a tie down strap across from both sides of the frame rails and the strap acts as a cradle, i aim for were the bell housing necks down.

I can have a carb motor on the ground in about 45 min at the most going at a normal pace, and an EFI motor in about an hour. Take in mind i have pulled more than a hundred motors out of just about every thing from Peugot to Mercedes and even a few Kenworths and Peterbuilts (those suckes are freaking heavy and huge), and i have pulled prolly 20 diffrent r-series toyota motors. Heck i have even done a toyota clutch off the far side of comp hill in the middle of the Florence dunes, thank god for ground cleance, plywood, and damp sand.

FYI...best way to get the bell housing bolts is ~3ft of extension and a wobbly with a deep 17mm socket and an air gun. If you dont have air than i use a box end wrench and get the two top bolts from above, use the closed end with the angle, and than there should be the starter,14mm one below one above the starter, and two more 17mm bolts about half way down the bell housing. The bolts on the bottom are 14mm and there is one sneaker that faces towards the front of the truck.

If some of that seems confusing or a little off its because my 7week old black lab puppy broke his hind femer on saturday and needs surgery, and i am leaving the 5th through the 10th and i have to leave i cant cancel. I hate kids, retorical but you know....