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Re: pulling tranny question
[Re: rednekbean]
#822515
07/03/07 04:43 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 480
OP
Mudrunner
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Sorry a little hazey on that response. Unbolt the engine from the transmission at the bell housing. It is easier to undo the tranny mount to give you some more room to work with when re-aliging the input shaft. I usually just undo the eight bolts that hold it to the frame rails and leave it attached to the transmission than run a tie down strap across from both sides of the frame rails and the strap acts as a cradle, i aim for were the bell housing necks down. Couple more questions: -Is there enough spline that I dont disconnect the drive shafts? Rear seems not to have much to work with. -Also this strap will hold up the front of the tranny/xfer but if the bolts are out of the support the ass end will need support....do I just bring it back to get the shaft out then bolt it back to keep it hanging...then again for the install? -Need to pull the shifters doing it like this? -I do have a heavy tranny jack but I think having it on the jack to install would be a hindrance in moving the tranny around to align the shaft during install. ![[Linked Image]](http://usera.imagecave.com/macobb/jack2.jpg)
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Re: pulling tranny question
[Re: MAC]
#822516
07/03/07 08:28 AM
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 202
Wheeler
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Ya know thats one of those moments when you want to kick your self in the pants.
Ok so dont take the tranny cross member off. There should be enough play in the tanny mount bushing for install. I use a jack on the bell housing of the tranny when installing it to help align and hold the tranny in place. I will tell you know its a huge help with two people and two sets of hands to go high and low. If you really really need the extra movement to align the tranny(you really shouldn't but..) than i would undo the four bolts that bolt the tranny directly to the trany mount bushing, that way the tranny is still supported but free to wiggle.
There should be no prob with the driveline or shifters if you leave the tranny x-member attached. If you do De-attach the mount like i said it should still be ok.
Like I said Im sorry if my head is out of it, so far the estimated bill to fix the puppy is $1500 and will prolly go up so I have other things on my mind.
92' Pick-up, SAS, gears to make her crawl, 37's , bullet proof motor, and alot of time invested. 06 CRF450R one mean roost flinging machine
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Re: pulling tranny question
[Re: rednekbean]
#822517
07/04/07 03:46 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 480
OP
Mudrunner
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OK. I think I was missing the big picture. I am basically unbolting tranny from engine and leaving the tranny where it is, and pulling the engine forward from tranny input shaft... and when installing the other engine I am sliding the engine to the tranny. (not vise-versa). Correct? Sorry to hear about the puppy. It's bad enough when they get hurt...the vet bills just add insult to injury.
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Re: pulling tranny question
[Re: MAC]
#822518
07/05/07 04:25 AM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 970
Rock Warrior
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Yes, you are correct. Mate the engine to the tranny. However if the tranny has ssome wigggle room, when lining up the bellhousing it may be easier to move the tranny a little, just depending. Watch yer fingers, that is a painful pinch.
One trick that makes re-joining them much much easier. I believe most of the bellhousing bolts are 17mm (m12s). get a handful of extras, and cut the heads off so you have studs that are maybe 2" long. Thread those suckers into the tranny side of the bellhousing so they stick out. You can them use them a guides to line up the engine, slip it into place, them pull each out and replace with a bolt.
With 200+ Billion electrical parts, the world most complicated machine is inside your own skull.
Question Reality. ----------------------------- '89 Rnr DLX "SR4.5", 32s w/ 5.29 locked f/r blah blah
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Re: pulling tranny question
[Re: RatLabGuy]
#822519
07/05/07 03:00 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 408
Mudrunner
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Yes, you are correct. Mate the engine to the tranny. However if the tranny has ssome wigggle room, when lining up the bellhousing it may be easier to move the tranny a little, just depending. Watch yer fingers, that is a painful pinch.
One trick that makes re-joining them much much easier. I believe most of the bellhousing bolts are 17mm (m12s). get a handful of extras, and cut the heads off so you have studs that are maybe 2" long. Thread those suckers into the tranny side of the bellhousing so they stick out. You can them use them a guides to line up the engine, slip it into place, them pull each out and replace with a bolt. After cutting them bolts....put a cut at the end of the bolt...so you can remove them with a flat head screw driver. Mike
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Re: pulling tranny question
[Re: MnMsToY]
#822520
07/05/07 05:49 PM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 970
Rock Warrior
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Yes, you are correct. Mate the engine to the tranny. However if the tranny has ssome wigggle room, when lining up the bellhousing it may be easier to move the tranny a little, just depending. Watch yer fingers, that is a painful pinch.
One trick that makes re-joining them much much easier. I believe most of the bellhousing bolts are 17mm (m12s). get a handful of extras, and cut the heads off so you have studs that are maybe 2" long. Thread those suckers into the tranny side of the bellhousing so they stick out. You can them use them a guides to line up the engine, slip it into place, them pull each out and replace with a bolt. After cutting them bolts....put a cut at the end of the bolt...so you can remove them with a flat head screw driver. Mike Slipping 2 nuts on 'em and turning the one it back works too <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
With 200+ Billion electrical parts, the world most complicated machine is inside your own skull.
Question Reality. ----------------------------- '89 Rnr DLX "SR4.5", 32s w/ 5.29 locked f/r blah blah
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Re: pulling tranny question
[Re: RatLabGuy]
#822521
07/05/07 05:55 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 480
OP
Mudrunner
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Thanks guys. Got the bolts to use as locating 'pins' and almost ready to go...
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