They're solid gold, right ??? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

This is just my opinion, the footprint is to small, the bolts are to long and on a side pull the bolts are going to snap. They also seem a bit pricy to me, but then again if I wanted something like I would just cut them on my mill!!!!!

Oops, the footprint is larger than that of the original tow hook.

I'm assuming by side pull you mean shear? If so shear is not an issue as it is exactly the same on these as it is on the stock hardware. Length has no effect on shear. This is class 10.9 hardware and very strong.

Bending moments are not an issue because the hardware is in tension. To place a bending moment on the hardware you would have to tip the blocks which is only possible if you forget to tighten them and would happen under the some conditions with the stock hook.

Frank

Ah the price. Well gents, this is 1" thick steel plate. You might price some at your local metal supply store and see that it is not as cheap as you might think.

The CNC cannot run nearly as quickly machining steel as it can aluminum. It wears bits way faster. There is no way around it. I actually underestimated the machining time pretty bad and learned on the first full run what it really takes to make a batch. We didn't increase our intended price just figured we'd make less money on them.

The other thing is that I analyzed these every which way I could and honestly, if I make them any less substantial I don't feel comfortable selling them. If something has to fail, let it be the strap. If a D-ring fails, you potentially have a projectile. If one of these lets go you have a larger projectile.

If these don't sell, or it takes extraordinarily long to get through the batch, well it's all good. We'll just discontinue them. At least I have a nice pair for my truck. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Frank <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

f-that too expensive, ill just stick to wrappin round the body mount

Your call.

Frank

Keep your negative comments to yourself. And watch your language around here, this is a family oriented site.

Id like to personally be the one who pulls you out of a ditch by hooking up to your body mount. I'll yank your body mount right off your truck, bolt, bushing and all.

Well that was constructive <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />. It constructed an image in my mind of a dumbass named tinytruck. Its one thing to give honest constructive opinions, but that was just stupid.

That being said, I still think that these will put more stress on the factory thread holes. Since the d-shackle is attached further below the frame, there is more leverage on the threads. I think these would be much more effective if you just made them a straight shot. I know you offset it to fit around a stock bumper, but if someone actually has the need for one of these, then they're most likely not going to be having a stock valance. Maybe make too versions??

-Scerb

Do you even know who this is.....
do you even know what truck im talkin about.....

I'm thinking the original pictures don't really show just how close the point of force (the d-ring hole) is to the frame so I took some more today. I just realized I left my PDA on the "night" setting so I'll have to take more but it still shows what it needs to.





The point of force is closer to the frame than it was with the stock tow hook. It is WAY closer to the frame than it is with an after-market bumper. I did that on purpose for the reasons you have mentioned. Also, if you look at the stack created by the stock tow hook and anchor on the passenger side you'll see that these are only about .25" thicker. Of course that extra material adds strength to the anchor where the original anchors (small ones for tying the truck to a flat bed) did not.

I also located that hole as close to the hardware as I could. There is a relief cut to clear the washer.




Moving the hole back more creates a few problems. One, it will start to interfere with the hardware. Two, eating farther into that radius creates a stress riser. And three, the d-rings already make contact with the valence very quickly. Moving the hole back makes it a lot worse

The passenger side d-ring can angle up only slightly more than horizontal. Interestingly, Toyota located the driver's side holes about .75"-ish farther forward so that d-ring can angle up higher before bumper contact.

Anyway, guys if you are worried about your frame, these are a great solution. The put the frame at a better mechanical advantage and you now have the option of dividing the load between the frame rails which cuts the load in half.

Frank