I'm thinking the original pictures don't really show just how close the point of force (the d-ring hole) is to the frame so I took some more today. I just realized I left my PDA on the "night" setting so I'll have to take more but it still shows what it needs to.

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The point of force is closer to the frame than it was with the stock tow hook. It is WAY closer to the frame than it is with an after-market bumper. I did that on purpose for the reasons you have mentioned. Also, if you look at the stack created by the stock tow hook and anchor on the passenger side you'll see that these are only about .25" thicker. Of course that extra material adds strength to the anchor where the original anchors (small ones for tying the truck to a flat bed) did not.

I also located that hole as close to the hardware as I could. There is a relief cut to clear the washer.


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Moving the hole back more creates a few problems. One, it will start to interfere with the hardware. Two, eating farther into that radius creates a stress riser. And three, the d-rings already make contact with the valence very quickly. Moving the hole back makes it a lot worse

The passenger side d-ring can angle up only slightly more than horizontal. Interestingly, Toyota located the driver's side holes about .75"-ish farther forward so that d-ring can angle up higher before bumper contact.

Anyway, guys if you are worried about your frame, these are a great solution. The put the frame at a better mechanical advantage and you now have the option of dividing the load between the frame rails which cuts the load in half.

Frank


1994 4runner, 3.0, auto, 4.88's, 31's, BJ spacers, Coil spacers, air shocks, D-ring anchors, 4Crawler F/R swaybar discos.
www.sdori.com