Ok so i just got a injetech EP 12S electric fuel pump for emergency use on the carburetor, the 2.6 mechanical fuel pump has 2 output conectors, one goes to the float chamber and the other to the acceleration pump, can i just plug a "T" fitting on the electric pump and route 2 hoses to the carburetor or do i need a pressure regulator?

When I had an electric pump added on my old 2.6L (to prevent another vapor-lock situation), I T'd the line to supply both intakes on the carb. A brass T.
I used a generic V8 fuel pump, bypassed the stock mech fuel pump.
The electric pump was used as-is, located close to the tank, no regulator, and put out ~8psi (if I remember correct).
The buzz can be annoying at first.

A buddy of mine mounted his to his body and the buzz was quite noticeable. Mine is mounted to the frame cross-member in front of the tank and I hardly hear it.

The pressure regulator is inside the oem pump, splitting the flow between regualted to the float bowl, and unregulated to the accel pump well and from there to the tank return line. I'd plumb the new one the same way with an external regulator in the engine compartment.

don't go any higher than 5psi. of fuel pressure. the carb needs barely any pressure to operate. I know for the weber it required 3psi if I remember correctly.

Could you mount a rubber pad of some type between the frame and the pump to quiet down some? Even something as flimsy as an old piece of those thick mouse pads would probably make a noticeable difference, wouldn't it?

To reiterate...



To elaborate...

I only barely hear it when the engine's off. When the engine's running the sound is completely masked.

What the two lines to the carb do:

One feeds the carbs float bowl... You have to hook that one up!

The other is a bypass line that does not supply any fuel to the carb! What does it do? Since some small amount of fuel is always going back to the tank it keeps the fuel from getting too hot from sitting in the lines. On its way back to the tank it runs by the accelerator pump to hlpe keep that part of the carb cool.

The accelerator pump is still fed from the carb bowl and the primary fuel line connection.

If you connect up the this second line it needs to have some sort of restrictor of all your fuel pumps capacity will be used to pump fuel in a circle back to the tank. Look at the restrictor in the stock fuel pump for an example.

If you dont do this you will have your pulse type pump working harder than it needs to and that will shorten its life.

Kevin C

After installing a spare carburetor i recently rebuilt (Covered with dry mud and grease, disassembled, cleaned, unstuck FBSV, installed carb kit and replaced AAP diaphragm, Depression chamber, mixture control valve diaphragm, reassembled, installed and worked on the first try, it's a lot of work, don't plan to do it again), i did some testings on the unmounted working old one, connecting the electric fuel pump (doesn't say the working pressure like Bosch or Master, but for 20 dollars it's nice to keep it in the spare box, i measured 50 seconds to dump 1 liter of fuel, that makes 1.2 Lt/Min 0.317 Gal US/Min) to a "T" fitting to split the unregulated fuel flow to the float chamber and acceleration pump connectors, if you lean the carburetor in an angle of about 45 degrees just like you where climbing a hill fuel starts dripping from the venturi, when i disassembled the carburetor i found a system on the bottom of the float bowl (overfill limiter) that consists of a weight ball that runs on a channel from side to side (driver and passenger) and pushes a pair of levers that lift the float, i guess this is only for rollover events when the vehicle is laid on one of it's sides and won't work when your going uphill, any fancy upgrades to fix this?, i was thinking a circuit to control the voltage applied to the fuel pump based on the TPS output and maybe also a missing pulse detector with delay that monitors the coil so it shuts down the pump when the engine is not turning after a few seconds (still haven't checked the range of voltage where the fuel pump works). When you angle the carburetor like when your going downhill looks like there is no problem, if you lean it sideways it starts squirting fuel from the venturi that stays lower, even fuel comes out from the thiny holes on the top of the carburetor.

So use a starion or gm tbi and avoid all this carb voodoo science.

A starion ecu and fi will work fine on a n/a 2.6. Curtis (LandRaider) knows gm tbi, and there is mucho hardware/software out there to write your fuel maps and spark for the gm. All you need is a manifold adapter and you have a 670cfm TB that doesn't slosh and drip and depend on unmeasurable voodoo to work.