I need a set of tough CV shafts. The shafts i have now are getting louder... CLick Pop click pop pop... You know the sound. Ok there are going on a wheeler. I have 31's on it now but i will be going to 33's. And i wheel hard (enough to know i can support the amigo on the belly pan!) is there one brand that holds up better then the rest? or are they all about the same?
Frank

I'd go to the nearest salvage yard pickup a set. Clean them up, put some new boots on them and go.

DO NOT buy any remanufactured cv axles. I had 2 remanufactured axles break in a row, and they shouldn't have broken (wasn't abusing it). Sure, you get a new one for free, but it still takes $250 in labor to replace it because you have to drop the diff to get it out. Plus, you don't know what make of truck the remanufactured axle came from, so you can't do a quick fix on the trail by separating the axle and just replacing the outer part only. Stick to OEM from salvage yards. Replace the boots and you should be good for a long time. Isuzu cv axles are stronger, and most remanufactured cv axles that fit our trucks were never an Isuzu axle. There is very little profit margin in the remanufactured cv business and they do as little as possible to them.

Pete

what year truck are you running.

If we are still talking about cv shaft assembles, no you don't have to drop the diff to change them <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />.

I say you do unless you have identical axles (unlikely with remanufactured) and you only have to replace the outer section and you leave the inner side in the diff. I'm talking 2nd gen Rodeo, not other models.

If you have the Haynes and or the Chiltons, Use them for trouble shooting and nothing else.... You do not have to drop the Differential. I replaced both CV, Both NAPA Remans, with out a problem and I wheel every weekend if I can, had them about 6 months. Sure they break, depends on what they can or cannot hold up to, They have to meet Spec before they can be boxed up and shipped out. Usually the boot goes, and no one catches it, them they break from being rusted, dirt, water, ect. Both of my CV's took a good while as I replaced Ball Joints, and Bearings w/ seals and a good Grease Pack. My whole front end is new. Except the Aisin Hubs From Matt at Indy. But they dont count. Good snap Ring Pliers are recommended. One's from AutoZone and checker's are not bad but there are better one's.

Robbie

I think it depends on which way you buy the axle. If you get the ones with inner cup included I've read that the inner cup and cv end are different then stock isuzu. If you get the ones without inner cup it should be the same as stock and fit the isuzu inner cup.

I've heard of cryogenicly treating cv's to increase the strength. I've never had it done and dont know how well it works. See if someone in your area does it and give it a try. If there isnt someone in your area you can try http://www.performancecryogenics.com/ but shipping might cost a bit.

my .02

Only use factory cv's from the JY or whereever they will be painted a weird dark green.


And most cv's when they break they will take out the inner cup,by cracking or splitting the cup.they are trashed and you have to drop the front diff down to replace them there is no way to remove them from the diff brackets since they are held in on the backside with a snap ring.

If you break the outer joint (birfield type) this will destroy the outer cup.
So you could replace just this end w/o droping the diff,
If the inners are the same there are atleast 2 different inners not to mention that if they are re-man'd the inner cup will be oversize to accomidate the larger balls.

If you buy a replacement axle shaft assy. from say Autozone etc.these will be complete,so to replace these and not void the warranty then you would have to drop the diff down to remove the mounting plates.

If you look at the reman'd versus OEM side by side and measure etc.The reman'd are alot weaker because of the smaller cast pc that holds the balls or it's a tripoid type joint which for our aplication is just junk.

As to making them stronger,I would get a factory set from the JY,clean,repack them.Then do a diff drop to make the c/v joint less of an angle,this will make a big difference in strenght,make sure that if a tire comes off the ground ease out of the throttle and let tire hit ground not spinning at 5grand this will help by not shocking the axle.

Another option would be to get a factory axle ass.dissasemble it and send all the pc's to cryo'd or atleast talk with 66deancj? on pirate about his process,might help

but get rid of the c/v angle and use factory joints.......this is a good place to start.

This is my .02 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Ok sounds like good info. I just repacked the inners, but they had some rust, I have no idea how bad they were treated. I also like the idea of dropping the diff to reduce the angel of the CV's i think i will work on that whis weekend.

Thanks for all the information, Without it i would have bought a set of Brand X axles from the parts store and thought i was doing the right thing.