my .02
Only use factory cv's from the JY or whereever they will be painted a weird dark green.
And most cv's when they break they will take out the inner cup,by cracking or splitting the cup.they are trashed and you have to drop the front diff down to replace them there is no way to remove them from the diff brackets since they are held in on the backside with a snap ring.
If you break the outer joint (birfield type) this will destroy the outer cup.
So you could replace just this end w/o droping the diff,
If the inners are the same there are atleast 2 different inners not to mention that if they are re-man'd the inner cup will be oversize to accomidate the larger balls.
If you buy a replacement axle shaft assy. from say Autozone etc.these will be complete,so to replace these and not void the warranty then you would have to drop the diff down to remove the mounting plates.
If you look at the reman'd versus OEM side by side and measure etc.The reman'd are alot weaker because of the smaller cast pc that holds the balls or it's a tripoid type joint which for our aplication is just junk.
As to making them stronger,I would get a factory set from the JY,clean,repack them.Then do a diff drop to make the c/v joint less of an angle,this will make a big difference in strenght,make sure that if a tire comes off the ground ease out of the throttle and let tire hit ground not spinning at 5grand this will help by not shocking the axle.
Another option would be to get a factory axle ass.dissasemble it and send all the pc's to cryo'd or atleast talk with 66deancj? on pirate about his process,might help
but get rid of the c/v angle and use factory joints.......this is a good place to start.
This is my .02 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />
I didnt even have to touch the Diff to do mine, Just got up in there with a long set of snap ring pliers and got them out that way but never had to drop it. But which ever is best for whoever is what works.