I saw Monte's post on the smog check deal so it remind me of my current problem after the butterfly removel.
As some of you know after the batterfly vaccum leak, I had a problem with the engine light staying ON, after I removed the butterfly valves I reset the engine/computer (by disconecting the battery) and the check engine light went off. On my way to the last sierra challenge trip (after driving for about 200 miles) the check engine light came ON again. The engine is runnig perfectly fine, as a matter of fact it evens iddles better then before. Now I am confuse about why the light still coming on, I don't think there is any sensors on the butterfly valves that are telling the PC they are no longer there? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
Anybody have any idea what could be causing the check engine light to come on?
Last time I tried to have a friend of mine check for code but he said his code reader only goes to year 96 and up. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Autozone etc will read it for you. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Their code reader is for 96 and up as well! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
Anyone outhere have any idea what I should look for?
Any help will be greatly appreciate! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Oh man that sucks <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> On a lot of cars there's a way to read the code by switching the ignition on and off a certain number of times to make the check engine light flash the code at you. Might be worth doing a search for the procedure.

Good luck <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Any ideas?? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

If it's idling better with the check engine light on then maybe the mass air flow sensor is going faulty? just a guess, but when the light is on, it's using mapped values and not sensor inputs. I do know for a fact a bad mass airflow can throw O2 sensor codes. Too lean AND too rich from the same sensor or all sensors usually points to this. A buddies Thunderbird was doing this and running terrible, we unplugged the Mass and it ran fine until he could afford the $150 to buy a new one.

cap is the check engine light blinking? If it is, it is blinking in code (long and short flashes). Then you can just look it up in a manuel.

Well, I said it's actually idling better now because I had the batterfly vacuum leak problem before.<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />
The check engine light only came on after the vacuum leak problem and is solod ON not flasing.
If I disconect the battery (reset) it goes away but then comes back on after some driving. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
Is there anyway to test if the 02 sensor is bad? (whitout having to buy a new one first)

Carlos,

What you do on our SR's (pre ODB/96's) is... ground the terminal # 1 plug...(under the steering wheel/ right near the brake peddle)

then turn the ign on... the "check engine" light will flash the sequence of codes with a 2sec pause in between each one..

If you have 23 error, the light will flash twice with a 2sec pause followed by 3 more times... then a LONG pause...

if nothing..it'll repeat the code again....

simple as that..

Jason

Oh yea.. one more thing, once you fix everything, or clear all the codes and the system is cool, you should get a steady BLINKING or "on-off-on-off" flashing on the "check eng light"

That's when you know it's a done deal <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

And yes, you can run without the butterfly, pass smog and be 100% cool with the ECU <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />