ecu is under dash in passenger footwell. relay is on right sidewall of passenger footwell and quite high, above bottom of glovebox opening. Nearby will be an unconnected single wire terminal taped to it's harness, probably with blue tape. Look for 12v at this terminal while cranking. If you see voltage, there is a break in the fuel pump wire. If not, suspect relay. Apply 12v to above terminal from battery and listen for fuel pump run. This confirms relay to fuel pump wiring and pump function. If the new pump won't run on this test, suspect fuel pump power and ground paths, and supply test ground and repeat test. If pump nogo, bad relay-pump wire or bad new pump. Apply 12v direct to pump - nogo pump is bad new pump. Go pump is bad relay/pump wire.
Note that relay turns on pump two ways. In ign start, relay turns pump on. In ign. on, ecu controls relay, and only turns it on when it sees a tach signal in the last 2-3 seconds. No tach signal from the coil, and the fuel pump relay is turn off by the ecu. To test just the relay, you have to isolate that coil ground wire from the relay to the ecu, and ground it temporarily, and see if the fuel pump runs in ign on. To test the relay in ign start without grinding the starter, disco the smaller solenoid wire from the starter solenoid. Probably a female plug on a spade terminal on the solenoid. Then hold the switch in start and listen for fuel pump run.
Relay is a little tight on removal. remove glovebox...
There is no fuse in the fuel pump circuit past the ign switch. If you have 12v coming out of the switch on all the right wires, you don't have a fuse problem. Remove lower half of steering column shell and test the wires on the end of the ign switch. One should have power with switch off. That one is power in. One will have power in ign on, and another will have power only in ign start. These are the power outs, and while you should only have one power in, you might have more than two power outs. If no power in, check fusible links and big amp fuses at battery.
