Hi everyone,

First off, would just like to thank everyone for all the info in this forum, it's great!!
My first post is unfrotunately due to a problem on a 92 Montero/Pajero 3.0L V6. I have a no start situation starter turns, sparks fine, but cannot hear anything from the fuel pump - it seems dead.
But before I tow it to the mechanic, I'd like to cross out the possibility of a simple blown fuse/relay.
Would anyone know if there is such a thing and where they are located?
Thanks in advance!!

Welcome! To verify if the pump is dead, you can jumper the battery to the test port which (at least in the GenI's) is located under the passenger-side dash near the kick panel. Mine was folded back on itself and taped with a blue tape. Carefully jumper the + terminal of your battery to this test port, and see if you hear the pump spinning. If you don't hear it, your fuel pump is most likely dead.

Eric W.

wow!
Thanks Eric for your quick response. I'm just going over to the truck now. Adn se if I can jump the pump. I'll see if I can find the connector, if not, I will go straight to the pump if I can.
I talked to a few Mitsu dealerships and they say the fuel pump relay is intergal to the computer, so if the relay's dead, then I have to buy a whole new computer module? Is this true?

If the control relay scheme is the same in the gen2, if you have spark, you have some relay function working, because one of the pair of relays powers the coil from the ign on, powering spark and ecu. The other powers the pump, and the coil is hot in ign start, and in ign on when the ecu tells it to be on. The ecu probably looks for spark events, and if it fails to see a tach signal (engine not running), the ecu turns off the pump. I would test for 12v at the pump with an assistant cranking the engine before I dug for the relay.

Oh, and for the dealer service BS, ask them why any clown engineer would have run a high current draw like the pump thru the delicate ecu innards. You'll get more BS, but it may be comic BS and the laugh will be worth the effort.

If you have to dig for the relay, it should be very near the ecu, which should be either behind the passenger side outer kick panel, or under the glove box under a steel cover. trace the wiring from the ecu, and look for a brand to a very nearby 1"dx2"Lx1.25" high metal can with about a 5-6wire bundle from the ecu, and one fairly fat wire out to the fuel pump. The fuel pump test connector should be spliced to the fuel pump power wire from the relay.

If no fuel pump power, check fuses.

Thanks for your advice Fasteddy! I knew I shouldn't have talked to the dealership!
Well I did the fuel pump test. I wasn't able to locate the test terminal, so I pulled the batttery and attached wires from the battery direct to the pump and no hum, no whinning, nothing. I also connected the wires reverse and still nothing. IN between was a test lamp which lit, so I know there was current going there, so I'm assuming this would be hard fact that the fuel pump has gone...
While I was assessing the pump, I noticed the mounting bolts are really tiny! I'm hoping when I remove the pump, I won't break any of them.
Any advice on how to properly remove the pump would be much appreciated.
Thanks again guys!!

Advice #1 -- don't try to disconnect the hi pressure fuel line (the one with the nut) at the fuel pump. Follow it back to the other end and disconnect it there, as that is where the movable fitting (whose name escapes me now 'cause I'm tired) on the hard line is. You risk cracking the down-tube to the fuel pump if you wrench on the pump-side of the line. This is the voice of experience speaking -- you can do a user-name search on my name to read about my adventures with the fuel pump in my Raider back in Oct/Nov of 2006.
Advice #2: get yourself the appropriate sized line wrenches if you don't already have them. It makes things much easier.
Advice #3: IF you are having trouble with a rusted fitting, use PB Blaster or the equivalent. Patience is really your friend here.
Advice #4: Might as well change the fuel filter while you've got the system de-pressurized.
Advice #5: Make sure to change the fuel-pump-to-fuel-tank gasket when you take the pump out. It's inexpensive and most likely your existing gasket will be dry and hard.

That's all I can think of right now. I'll caveat all my advice by saying my only experience is with a Gen 1, but I suspect the Gen 2s are very similar. Good luck, and post back with any questions you might have as you get into it -- a number of us have done it and will be glad to help <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Eric W.

Great advice Eric, thanks!
I would have definitely tried to unscrew the fuel line at the pump if you hadn't posted your message.
This forum is great!

That would be called a flare nut... Amazing what a good nights rest can do <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Eric W.

Well, I was looking for info in regards to fuel pump r&r, and I noticed a few discussions about people thinking that the problem was a fuel pump failure, but in fact it was ECU, bad wiring, etc.
Just to confirm, I wired the battery and 12 volts direct to the fuel pump and no sound at all. This would confirm that the fuel pump is dead right?

Correctomundo. Good luck with the replacement <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />