Excellent idea!

HEY ROB FIRST I WILL GET TO YOUR EMAIL TOMORROW ABOUT THE U JOINTS, I HAVE BEEN HAVING PROB WITH MY EMAIL , NOW I HAVE BEEN THINKING ABOUT A POORS MAN ARB SETUP,, HOW ABOUT THIS , WELD UP THE FRT DIFF, NOW OF COURSE YOU HAVE FULL PULL ALL THE TIME , NO MATTER WHAT HUBS YOU HAVE WHEN THEY ARE LOCKED CORRECT.. OK SO LETS INSTALL A 96-97 RODEO FRT AXLE WITH THE MECHANICAL AXLE DISCONNECT NOT THE NEWER ONES THAT HAVE AN ACTUALL SHIFT MOTOR ON THEM , GET THE ONE THAT HAD THE VACC CONTROLLED ACTUATOR, AND A VACC SOLONOID AND A SW ON THE DASH TO SW THE VACC ON AND OFF TO DISCONNECT THE LEFT DRV AXLE AT WILL , A SIMPLE TOGGLE SW ,A SOLONOID , AND YOU CAN LOCK AND UNLOCK THE FRT AXLE AT ANY TIME YOU WANT AND THEY WORK FAST , IF YOU WANTED TO GET FANCY WITH IT YOU COULD SET IT UP WITH A COUPLE OF LITES ON THE DASH TO INDICATE THE DIRECTION OF LOCK UP OR NON LOCK, THIS WAS ORIGINALLY ACCOMPLISHED BY A CONTROLLER SO THAT YOU COULD SHIFT ON THE FLY BUT YOU WILL NOT NEED THAT , JUST A SIMPLE IN AND OUT .. AND THE AXLE HOUSING OVERALL WIDTH IS THE SAME AS THE TROOPER ALL YOU WOULD NEED IS YOUR TROOPER DIFF BRACKETS JERRY

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Should I send you my time-lapse photography gear for you to take pictures with?

Randii

On Jerry's idea ... if you welded one spider to the case, that might just do the trick. Running a classic spool, you'd have a locked axle and an unlockable axle on the disconnect side, but the opposite side would always be locked unless you hopped out to rotate a hub.

I'm having a hard time visualizing this, but it is an interesting idea!

Randii

Pardon my ignorance on this but, if you weld the front you can still unlock the front axle via the hubs right? You are not going to be locked all the time like if you welded the rear?

Also, you guys are saying that with the rear locked there were seldom times when you needed the front locked? I have been contemplating on locking the front, but from yous guys experiences just the rear locked has been enough?

THIS IS CORRECT ,NO MATTER WHAT YOU WELDED UP, TO ELIMINATE THE DIFFERENTIAL ACTION , AS LONG AS THE RT SIDE HUB WAS LOCKED , OF COURSE THAT WHEEL WOULD PULL , NOW IF THE HUB ON THE DRIVER SIDE IS LOCKED AND THE AXEL SLEEVE IS IN THE NEUTRAL OR UNLOCKED POSITION STILL, ONLY THE RT SIDE WHEEL WILL PULL AND THE DIFF WOULD WORK AS AN OPEN DIFF AS THE LEFT DRIVE AXLE EVEN THOUGH IT IS TRANSFERRING POWER ,IT CAN ONLY GET TO THE AXLE DISCONNECT AND THE AXLE INSIDE JUST SPINS THE SAME RPM AS THE RT SIDE, NOW SW ON THE ACTUATOR , AND THE SLEEVE MOVES OVER AND ENGAGES THE AXLE HUB ON THE DRV SIDE AND NOW THAT AXLE HUB WILL TURN AT THE SAME RATE AS THE RT SIDE , THIS SAME THING OF COURSE CAN BE ACCOMPLISHED BY GETTING OUT AND UNLOCKING ONE HUB , BUT I THINK IT WOULD BE EASIER TO DO FROM INSIDE ,THAT WAY YOU DONT GET MUDDY OR IN YOU CALIF, GUYS CASE GET SAND IN YOUR SHOES .. JERRY

There was a guy on here not to long ago that was on his thrid set of cv's because the front ifs was welded.

Jerry that's an interesting idea,is the housing 96/97 the same width as the 1st gen Amigo?

Also this would make equal lentgh cv's correct?

Rob, I remember emailing you about welding the ifs like 3 years ago. Maybe I should find your response and post it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />
Really, I would do some more research on the Aussie. Everything I've read says that it is designed and works better than the lockright. Meaning it actually ratchets. One review on pirate said that with the hubs locked, if keep the tcase in 2wd, you don't even know its there. I wanted to get one for my d44, but apparently they are sold out for now.



I'm thinking the interesting part is finding cv's that fit. Assuming that the actual housing fits, I don't think cv's from either gen would work because of the longer a-arms on the 96-97. Maybe you could mismatch and have the inner shaft with the cup from the 96-97, and the outer shaft up to the inner joint from the first gen trooper/amigo.

Well if the housing fits between the diff plates then all you have to do is connect tires.........
we know the outers are the same since we can "big brake upgrade" this coonfirms the spindles/knuckles out is the same.
so using the outers and axles from a 1st gen.........with the inners from the 1 1/2gens should work as long as the axles are the same OD and spline count and the snapring groove on the axles is in the same spot....just take inner joint apart and transfer the cage and bearings to the 1st gen shafts....seems simple enough <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rodent.gif" alt="" />....we'll just have to see.