If he was messing with the fuel filter, did you try to purge the line at all. Maybe leave the key on for a couple minutes to try to prime the line? Good luck <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Yes there's a dimple on the front of the sprocket as well as the notch on the back of the sprocket as shown in the photo. Looks like he's got the timing on from the pics. If the truck wont run I would look for another culprit. Plug wires all in the right place? Theres no crank angle sensor on SOHC 3.0 so its not that.

when doing the T belt I always go by the sprocket not the pully. The plastic cover could get distorted by heat over time and become innacurrate giving you a slightly false reading. In my opinion you should always install the belt utilizing the mark(s) on the sprocket(s). Also since the pully is Keyed to the crankshaft theres no way it can slip barring a broken key which you would have spotted upon dissasembly so I would eliminate that possibility from the equation.

THAT'S what I wanted to say... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I swapped out MAF and still nothing. its really fast to die out. We changed the valve cover gaskets which required pulling the intake plenum so I will pull that and see if anything clogged up something.

Did I miss a post? or have you already verified fuel flow?

I inspected the fuel filter and it appears to be correct (Although its a cheap fram filter) I sprayed some starter fluid and it still repeated the same things. How can I check fuel flow?

1) Cycle the injector harness connector a few times... and if you have some electrical contact cleaner (Radio Shack has it in aerosol cans), spray the connectors.

2) Check to see if the injectors are getting power.

3) If you still have the old fuel filter, reinstall it and see what happens.

You should also recheck the coil wire, but it sure sounds like a fuel issue on the recording. I'm trying to think of anything that can cause the fuel pump to shut off, but I'm not coming up with anything that makes sense if the engine was running when you started the job.

Frank

I had to powerspray everything off when I tore it down (caked mud and tar waterpump sealer) and I hit the distributer with the sprayer but I doubt that would hurt anything. I will get a can of electrical cleaner and spray all connections as a precaution.

*** Clarifying I sprayed the distributer with the cap still securely in place (Im not that stupid <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> )

Could the fuel filter be installed backwards? Not sure if this will prohibit running or not, but... Also, a quick and dirty fuel flow test (while Frank's directions are the proper way) disconnect supply line at a joint and put power to the fuel pump test connector. It'll be self-explanatory if you do or don't have fuel flow. You can also remove the plugs and see if you can fuel fowl the cylinders. I know these are rough procedures, but they work when pinch diag is all you have to work with. Good luck <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

as far as I know there is one. It is inside the distributer (along with camshaft sensor.)

it is used to send control feedback to idle speed motor, so perhaps it could prevent starting.

the FSM doesnt say much about it, so I could be mistaken