I finally got around to converting my old Warns to Aisins. Turned out to be a 2 banana job for me because I couldn't remember what I did during the first conversion from ADD hubs 8 years ago. The 2nd hub went much quicker.

One thing I couldn't remember was how to tighten the hub bolt (edit:bolt on the end of the axle) after I put the Aisin hub body on. I don't think it's critical so I just whacked the ratchet a couple of times by hand and let inertia help me out. Otherwise, the shaft rotates when I try to tighten it.

A couple of things stand out:
1) the Aisins are much stiffer to lock/free than the Warns. Maybe this will loosen in time. I may carry an open end wrench to give me better leverage.
2) I need to rework the old hub covers to fit the Aisins like some of you have done.

The old Warns still looked good inside. No rust or anything. The only rust was on the outside.. mostly the end cap screws.

The Aisins were refurbs from Wabfab. You could see where someone had beat 'em up trying to get the old cone washers out.


Before:


After:

This should not be happening. They should turn easily and freely by hand. Sounds like they have rust on them or are installed improperly. Either way, you need to remove them to clean and rebuild them.







I don't understand what hub bolt you are referring to. The 54mm axle nut? That should be tightened with the hub off. It's pretty important to get it tightened properly as that is what sets your wheel bearing preload. Or are you talking about the bolt that threads into the end of the axle shaft? That's not all that important as long as its snug.

That's not what I want to hear after paying for someone else to rebuild them. How is it possible to screw up the installation? (not that I couldn't screw it up, of course)

Mount the body (new gasket - supplied), insert the axle bolt, attach the end cap with 6 bolts and new supplied gasket. I saw no sign of rust in the Aisins. But I only took the cap off to mount the body.

The vendor said this:
"The new rubber seal around the dial face to keep the water and mud out is probably the culprit. Just take the face off and lubricate that rubber with something rubber friendly. It has probably gotten a bit tacky and sticky due to the newness and sitting up with no breakin use."

Any suggestions for lube?

Edit: yes, I meant the bolt that fits into the end of the axle shaft.

it is possible to put the dial on improperly, which makes the axle engaged full time even when the dial says free.

I tried a short drive. Engaged 4wd and disengaged. It felt normal to me.. but I didn't test it in the dirt.

The control is getting a bit better. I can one hand it now. But it's still pretty stiff.

Rick

Some silicone spray or silicone grease should work ok on the rubber. It will still seal but slide better.

I think this is an important point. If the dial isn't oriented properly on the body then you'll end up in 4WD no matter what... and it probably would make the dial hard to turn.

I seem to remember it wouldn't let me put the dial on incorrectly though... only fit in one orientation.

Mine are pretty easy to turn though...

Thanks Gary. I'll look for some.

Is it possible the rubber o-ring has started to travel on you, maybe binding in a spot?

Easy enough to test. I just need to jack up one side and see if the wheel turns the half shaft in free mode.

(jacks one side up)... checks shaft... doesn't turn in free mode. Locks hub... half shaft turns. Unlocks.. shaft doesn't turn.

Ok. I'd say it's installed correctly.