All chain brake places are crooks. For your front brakes, you need the following tools. 14mm box end wrench. disc brake caliper spreader (any large auto parts store). piece of fine sandpaper. big tube of disc brake silicone grease.

Use 14mm box wrench to remove lower caliper bolt on back (car) side of caliper, low down. With bolt removed, you can pivot the whole caliper with pads inside up and to the rear. When the caliper clears the disc and backing plate, you can slide the caliper off the upper caliper slide pin. Don't let it hang from the hose. Use a piece of wire to tie caliper up to truck. Note upper slide pin still on hub assy. Should be shiny chrome and greased with clear to amber lube without rough spots. Lower caliper bolt should have same lube on it and be slick on the shaft - no roughness. Rubber boots should be sound. If the pin and bolt are cruddy, sand them slick with the sandpaper. Lube the shaft of the lower bolt. Pack the upper slide pin bore in the caliper with brake lube (not full, but lots, like 25% full. Install new pads with the right antichatter shims on the back of the pads and no-squeal goo on the pad backs. When you install the caliper on the upper slide pin, excess silicone lube will squirt out the little hole in the sheet metal cap on the back of the caliper bore. Catch with a rag. Rotate capliper with pads back onto disc. Won't fit. Remove pads and use spreader to force caliper piston back into caliper to fit fat new pads. Curse self for forgetting, again. Rotate caliper onto disc with pads installed, and insert and tighten lower caliper bolt. Remember to pump brakes until you establish pedal before test drive, or you'll get a heart thumper ride when the pedal hits the floor the first 5-6 times you slam it, while headed for your wife's new car in reverse....

Brakes are easy. Bearings are almost as easy with the hub nut tool.