Sorry Michael,

didn't mean to be a mystery guy.
I'm in Banff, AB Canada. The car was imported from Japan, it's a Mitsubishi Pajero V6 3.0L gas motor a/t, E-V43W model. Manufacture date 1991 December, but sold as 1992 model. It is a 2nd gen Pajero, same looks as the 2nd gen Montero.
Chassis # (Japan has no VIN's) is V43-4002691.
The vehicle was confirmed running in Japan, and upon arrvial in Canada. It was also towed to the ground transport vcompany and was confirmed running then.
3 weeks of wait ad the car arrived in Banff via truck. The battery was dea when the driver picked it up, so he had to jump start.
Jump start again upon arrival in Banff via battery pack (polarity confrimed), engine fired up no problem.
I got it into drive and the motor stops. So jump start again and this time I rev motor a bit while braking and shift into dreive. Still running so I started to drive it
and it started to make a clicking sound from pasenger footwell, like a relay going on and off, fairly loud as I could hear it while driving. Everytime it clicked, everything would turn off momentarily, engine dash lights, etc.
After parking the car and shfting into park, motor idles smoothly.
I pulled battery and it was completely dead. It took three days to get it charged.
I attach the battery, start the motor cranks fine but no fire.
I wonder if I fired the ECU with a surge? would I see some sort of evidence in the ECU if this was the case?
Thanks guys!!

I'm still voting on the alternator.. It does supply the ignition circut in some way. Pull it & have it tested.

Ed

Quick question.
Is the ECU code to see if the ECU has gone bad the same as Gen 1, - needle sweeps up and stays up?
Ken

The clicking sound from the passenger footwell was the relay kicking on and off as the ecu tried and failed to ground it's coil. Another sign of capacitor damage...

Did a quick check on the codes through the plug and voltmeter.. the voltmeter needle shows a repeating fast sweep. This would indicate the the ECU has no codes stored and the ECU is fine?
I have disconnected the battery a few times after the no start. But I did try and crank it, right before checking the codes thinking it would store a faulty code for the ECU...

yes you erased any codes by disconnecting battery
(On a 1989 model you will not get codes unless check engine light is on. And the engine must run a few minutes.... now I think that is correct. It happens that way with air sensors, and maybe other systems....)

BUT, you have a 1993 model, and it might be entirely different. What is it a 24 valve?

What books do you have to refer to ? There are some available here, so speak up.

Yes, correct

maybe bad gas?

or maybe a bad connection somewhere.
Needs a diagram to look at, then check all the connections for volt drop

Might be futile...but might also be the fix.

If you mean it was hooked to a battery charger and took 3 days to accept a full charge, you have a very bad battery - or a very bad battery charger.

Also, how did you charge the battery - with the battery terminals still on the battery? If so, try removing the terminals and cleaning the terminals and the battery posts - reconnect and charge again... see what happens. Remove the battery grounds attached to the engine and fender and clean those connection areas. Inspect the battery cables - replace if they're corroded. Remove/clean/reinstall the ECU ground wire on the sidewall.

At least have someone check the battery and the alternator before you pay for an ECU.

Frank