|
|
Re: Anyone rebuild their idler arm assembly?
[Re: 88SuperTrooper]
#833729
12/21/07 03:55 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 4,016
OP
Isuzu Moderator
|
All of the ones I've seen require swapping over the original arm (much like the fan flange when buying an aftermarket water pump). I doubt the arm needs replaced... that's a big-o-hunk of cast metal <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/mrt.gif" alt="" />
Sean Strawmyer Back and ready to rock...... crawl. From Indiana or surrounding states and interested in wheelin'? Check out www.mwior.com
|
|
Re: Anyone rebuild their idler arm assembly?
[Re: 88SuperTrooper]
#833730
12/21/07 08:53 AM
|
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 36
Getting the Wheeling Fever
|
Well 88 trooper I don't think the arm does wear out. I'm with the boss in this. The shaft that anchors to the frame is the problem. You need to put your peice in a vise with the arm on it. If it really moves around after you really jerk on it maybe change it. Have you checked all your ball joints and your upper control arms. You can do this for nothing at Schwab or any alingment shop. Just be there watching, make them show you whats wrong. You decide, with me they wanted to replace both upper ball joints but I could see on one side it was the upper control arm. So I did it myself. Have your tierods checked too.
You do need to fix everything before you adjust your steering. Then do an alingment before you do the steering.
If you read the whole tread you will see that Sean said he had adjusted his steering to the max, before he rebuilt the idler. I don't blame him. But I would say fix everything else then try your steering adjustment(found on this site), I think your idler shaft bushing well last. Have one ready if you want but adjust the steering after you have done all the other things. Then do the Idler. They will tell you for nothing at the place you have it checked if you need more work. Stan
Getting old is not for sissies.
|
|
Re: Anyone rebuild their idler arm assembly?
[Re: guvtrooper]
#833731
12/21/07 05:52 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 39
Getting the Wheeling Fever
|
I was going to ask a steering related question that applys to this particular thread. I have just replaced several items on my `93 amigo. items include a brand new, not rebuilt, idler arm shaft from NAPA, brand new NAPA one piece upper ball joints, INDY4X heavy duty tie rods, new upper polyurethane control arm bushings from CALMINI, new steering stabilizer, also from NAPA because it mounts as close to stock using the knuckle on the center link. MY problem is after all this and roughly $500 later, my steering has excessive freeplay. I went to decrease it by adjusting at the gear box, but the locknut and adjusting screw have become one, only allowing me to back it out. My question is... can I back the adjustment screw all the way out to try and free the two without asking for trouble with any springs or ball bearings or the like becoming unsituated? And yes I had the allignment done and allthe replaced components were properly installed with the correct torque ratings. I`m hoping that I don`t need to rebuild the gearbox or replace it, so I thought I would try this first, any help out there!
93 Amigo 3"suspension lift, 1inch BL, 33"x1250 mud tires, 1.5"spacers, 8000# winch on mod grill guard, limited slip diff, offroad lights and DOR Tierod Shieldz,and UB Skidderz, flowmaster40,cone air intake
|
|
Re: Anyone rebuild their idler arm assembly?
[Re: ruggedamigo]
#833732
12/22/07 02:24 AM
|
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 362
Mudrunner
|
I was going to ask a steering related question that applys to this particular thread. I have just replaced several items on my `93 amigo. items include a brand new, not rebuilt, idler arm shaft from NAPA, brand new NAPA one piece upper ball joints, INDY4X heavy duty tie rods, new upper polyurethane control arm bushings from CALMINI, new steering stabilizer, also from NAPA because it mounts as close to stock using the knuckle on the center link. MY problem is after all this and roughly $500 later, my steering has excessive freeplay. I went to decrease it by adjusting at the gear box, but the locknut and adjusting screw have become one, only allowing me to back it out. My question is... can I back the adjustment screw all the way out to try and free the two without asking for trouble with any springs or ball bearings or the like becoming unsituated? And yes I had the allignment done and allthe replaced components were properly installed with the correct torque ratings. I`m hoping that I don`t need to rebuild the gearbox or replace it, so I thought I would try this first, any help out there! Is your Power steering fluid in good condition? I know how to do the Idler arms, Chevy and fords are too easy for me. If you have one, an Air Hammer will pop them right off with no effort, and does VERY little damage to the arm itself. On another Note: The ball and Socket on the Arm itsself could possibly be worn out at some point down the trail. Was just curious is they are available. and where you could get them from. If not Im ok with just swapping the braket that is soo annoying sounding and feeling. I have yet to see a Hunk of Metal like these arms. I didnt really look at it anytime during the time I have owned the Trooper. Got to looking at the bracket to make sure its right. and wow, its big. Robbie-- sorry to say though, toyota one's are by far the easiest to change out, with the right tools, its takes 10 min if that, I'll find out if the Isuzu One's are any easier. lol. Thanks guys.
89'Isuzu Trooper LS 5 spd 2.6L 31" Big O X/T's 15x8 Eagle 058's K&N Filter w/ Air Box Mod 2.25" DynoMax SuperTurbo PolyUrathane/Indy4X Bushings Suspension/ FrontEnd Tech/Hunter Certified Alignment Tech.
|
|
Re: Anyone rebuild their idler arm assembly?
[Re: 88SuperTrooper]
#833733
12/23/07 05:56 PM
|
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 362
Mudrunner
|
WOW, 10 min to change it. Just like the Toyota's. 14mm wrench, 14mm socket and ratchet ( I used an Impact ) and a 24mm on the arm to shaft. Air Hammer did the first blow and it came off, went back together just as easy, didnt even have to take the arm off the steering linkage. That Saves time and extra work. Now: Im in love with the no knocking sounds and how firm the steering feels, Bump steer isnt as bad. All Slop in the wheel is gone. Im glad I did this. Even Jerry Lemond said they usually dont replace the Arm unless its broken or tweaked. So I'll run with that. I have the Old one, Ill take it apart at work Wed morning and look up your How to.
Thanks, Robbie
89'Isuzu Trooper LS 5 spd 2.6L 31" Big O X/T's 15x8 Eagle 058's K&N Filter w/ Air Box Mod 2.25" DynoMax SuperTurbo PolyUrathane/Indy4X Bushings Suspension/ FrontEnd Tech/Hunter Certified Alignment Tech.
|
|
|
|