Or a worn cylinder bore.... or a bent rod... or rod small end bearing wear from inadequate lubrication.... broken, stuck or worn piston rings.... or a combination of things. As Eddy said, a rebuild is the only answer.

Here's one way to diagnose piston slap:

Test for Piston Slap

Frank

Thank GOD its only that. I thought it was going to be a labor intensive problem. Like I might have to pull the engine or something. ( I kinda figured it wasn't a valve because that would be too easy.) Thanks Fasteddy. I do appriciate it. Now to start a thread on rebuilding my engine without doing a propper search!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Pat

Apologies FrankR. I didnÆt see your post. Thank you as well for your response. This vehicle is to be used to deliver traditional bow hunters to their individual tree stands or ground blinds. I donÆt drive more than 20 miles in a single trip. The truck basically idles around hunting camps. If I go hunt any further than that I trailer it.

Is there anything I can do now to help lessen the potential damage until next summer when I would have time to rebuild? Like engine additives or heavier oil? Or just say my little prayer [In the name of the father, the son, and Fred Bear] and drive it until it breaks, then worry about a rebuild.

I tiled my friendÆs bathroom floor for the truck. About a $500 dollar job total for the work. So I guess I am not out much.

OK thatÆs enough, now IÆm goinÆ on like a chick.

Thanks for everyoneÆs help!

Pat <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

If you're comfortable doing your own rebuild, go find an engine in the junkyard and rebuild it yourself in your spare time.

Meanwhile, just keep driving it.... gently.

Frank

I put about 20k mi on a 3.0 with the piston slapping like a Punch and Judy show. I used Castrol 20w50 year 'round.

Ahhh Fellas you have given me an OUT!!! THANKS SO MUCH!!

20W-50 you say Fasteddy.... I just might use 21W-50 (for the times when you need just one more. Like my friends asking why I need a .45 pistol. "Cause they don't make a .46") <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I will keep everyone post as to when and where terminal failure occured.

Once again FrankR and Fasteddy thanks for you time.

Pat

One last thing, a friend suggested if it is not piston slap, it might be a rod bearing. Has anyone ever replaced one without removing the engine? I know this might be a really stupid question BUT if I removed the oil pan, would the crankshaft be accessible enough to allow me to possibly replace the rod bearing. I think it is the #6 piston based on noise location.

Just a thought.

Pat

To remove the oil pan, you'll need to lift the engine a little to clear the axle assembly..... then remove the head and push the piston out through the deck. By the time you do everything involved with that, you could probably pull the whole engine and install the one you rebuilt in your spare time..... and have a completely fresh engine. How would you feel if you did all the work and found out that you "fixed" the wrong rod? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />

Just a thought....

Frank

FrankR I think I need to stop thinking.....

Will replace the oil with 20W-50 then start the journey locate an engine for rebuild. With all of the flooded out cars from Katrina now in junkyards (auto recyclers) I might get lucky.

Pat.

Probably wouldn't hurt to slap some STP oil treatment or that Motor Honey real thick stuff in there for some cushioning...

BTW, you don't have to lift the engine to pull the pan. It's easier to drop the axle. Leave the rear diff carrier bolts in, and take out the fronts, and the diff swings down enought to drop the pan. However, I'd leave it alone, UNLESS you put a mech oil pressure gauge on it and see flutters in the oil pressure at idle or just above. What you have now is probably rebuildable. A catastrophic failure will probably change that....