I finally got around to installing the Autogauge Z-series gauges I bought a couple of months ago.



I was worried that it would look a little rice, but I think it came out OK. I mounted them on some scrap diamond plate I had laying around. I was going to paint it flat black, but I kinda like the contrast for now--we'll see. Used the mounting holes from the original cluster, with some spacers between the dash surface and the plate.

I tell ya, its nice having accurate info! Oil pressure jumps up to 80psi when cold, varies when operating, and gradually goes down to 20psi at idle after warmup. Far cry from the "2" I always had with the stock gauge; I might have just as well painted a red arrow pointing to "2" with that piece of !*%$. I was surprised how long it took the transmission temp to come up--about 20 minutes to max.

Here's the tee I installed on the oil pressure sender port. One outlet for mechanical oil and one for electric oil temp. Thought I might have to drain the oil to install it, but only a bit dribbled out before tightening it down.



Routed the tubes and wires through the firewall where the main harness feeds through. Turned out to be a good place; it gave me room to work them up under the dash and I only had to remove the speedo panel.



When I changed the transmission oil filter awhile ago, I had a welding shop put a bung in the pan for the transmission temp sender. Mounted a stainless steel screw next to it for the sender ground. Painted the pan to prevent rust where the weld was done.



Now I just need to figure out why the oil temp isn't working; it might be a grounding issue. I connected the ground wire to a screw hole you can see in the oil tee picture, but maybe that's not a good ground. I also need to redo the wiring in back of the gauges. You can't see it from the picture, but it's a rat's nest back there. Then maybe in the distant future when I get some fab skills I can build a console that looks more stock. That would be sweet!

All in all, it'll do.

looks very nice!!!! I am not sure how accurate the oil temperature sensor is there...I thought they were supposed to be mounted on the sump of the oil pan...because the oil going through your engine is going to be very hot and you want to know the temperature of it before the pickup "picks it up"

correct me if I'm wrong but thats just how I understood it.

but very nice install!!! I wouldn't have the patience to install all those gauges....it took me 8 months just to install a boost gauge on my Diesel Pajero haha.

I think you're right. I noticed this morning that the needle was pegged to the left of 140 when I left for work, and on 140 when I got here, so its working, just not getting hot enough. There's no flow there.

Originally I wanted to put the sender in the oil pan, but afer researching it on here (this forum is a godsend) I found out what a PITA it is to remove, so I thought I'd try the tee. Guess not.

OK, could I weld a bung in the oil pan while its still on the truck? How's this procedure- Drain the oil, drill the hole, remove internal shavings with magnet, flow nitrogen through drain plug while welding bung.

Or am I begging for a carbeque?

You might weld an oversize bung on the oil pan before you drill the hole, then bush the bung down to the sender thread. That way you weld on a pan full of oil, away from the oxy in the crankcase, then drain the pan, drill the hole, remove the shavings with the mag, and you're done.

Or, put the sender in a wet well on the cooler feed line from the filter adapter, near the adapter. I found that my oil temp sender was excessively cooled by air circulation and had to insulate it with rock wool and a tape wrap to get reliable readings...

I'm constantly amazed by the ingenuity of the old hands (experience not age) on this forum. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> Thanks fasteddy, great advice!

my friend just bought a JDM Mitsubishi Lancer GSR...it has factory Mitsubishi boost, oil temp, oil pressure gauges. the sending unit for the oil temp is build right into the drain plug for the oil....I thought that was an awesome idea, I would see if you can get anything made like that!

Those are Autometer gauges, not AutoGage. You have better stuff than Autogage. Trust me I worked for Autometer for 10 years.

But I would recommend replacing the nylon plastic tubing on the oil pressure gauge for a stainless braided line. If the little plastic tube breaks, you will be pumping all of your oil out of your motor.

In any severe use condition like off roading, build it strong. It costs more, but it will be reliable. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Roger that Racer4. I had "gauge" on the brain when I wrote that post. Autometer Z-series.

I did upgrade to copper tubing, but the six foot length ran out when I got to about the steering box, so I finished the line with the nylon that came with the meter until my other copper tubing order arrives. Braided steel would be the ultimate, but I think I'll be fine with the copper, especially since its protected from flying debris by the skid plates.

BTW, I found Autometer sells a M14x1.5 to 1/8 NPT adapter so I can connect the oil temp sensor where the oil pan drain plug goes. No on truck welding!