because it will cause the floor right above it to get really hot, can cause the frame by it to worp or become weaker from the heat. burn a hole through the floor board. stuff like that.

You are overestimating the ability of the cat to a rather hysterical degree. Yes, it is hot. Yes, depending on the distance from the firewall, it could make the floor hot, but I have a funny feeling that it is not going to warp the frame or melt a hole in the floor.

Michael

I've removed them on civics to make clearace for short throw shifter and for braces. Never really noticed the floor getting very hot or anthing.

If you are able to stop the vibration by clamping it down with vice grips, can you/an exhaust shop/buddy with a welder tack it in place? Most of my OEM heat shields have rusted off by now with no resulting catastrophic failures; but I still would have rewelded them if I had them. My truck is old and beat up enough at this point that it sheds unwanted parts <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Im just going off what my auto class teacher told me. but then again he said I was about to throw a rod and all it was was the timing belt tensioner. Not the best teacher to have really. but then again he use to be a dealership machanic so there you go.

There is an ironic old adage, "Those that can, do. Those that can't, teach. Those who can't do either, administrate."

Strangely enough, the shield does not appear to be broken loose at all. In fact, it is securely attached. The fact that I wrapped a couple of band type clamps around it and tightened them up pretty good and the noise still existed makes me think that there might be something else to this problem. The 'vise grips method' has the vise grips attached just to the edge of the lower shield (there's an upper and lower portion that is split down the middle of the pipe) and then resting on a bar that runs from the control arm area back about 2-3 feet. I suppose the vise grips are creating a king of dampening effect that stops the vibration. The fact that wrapping the clamps around the shield(s) didn't have any effect really stumps me. I'm guessing that the problem isn't with the shield but something very close to this area. Perhaps the exhaust manifold flange area where it connects to the exhaust pipe??? Maybe there's a loose bolt there and the dampening effect of the vise grips is mis-leading me into thinking the problem is with the shield? I guess my next step will be to get it into a muffler shop and up on a lift to see what the heck is going on in this area. Hard to really determine while laying on the garage floor... Anyway, I've owned 2 2nd gen Amigos and now a 2nd gen Rodeo and have had 2 out of 2 V6s (one of the Amigos was a 4cyl) with this problem, I thought that someone might have come across it before. The noise is so loud that it's impossible to not notice and again only happens around 2500 RPMs (a little less or a little more and it fades away). Also, only happens when moving (not while parked and revving the engine up to 2500 RPMs). When I finally get it figured out I'll update this post.

Yeah, I agree. Me and some other guys my age do more to our trucks in our own garage than we learn or do in class. I really dont like that I have to get up at 6:30 in the morning every friday to get to class at 8 and stay till 1, then have to go to work till 1 or 2 in the morning. But that saturday is work on truck day which is great for me. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> And I go here and do my homework on what Im about to do or what I need to do before I get out there and do any work.

OK. found the source... wiring harness heat shield on the tranny. The part # is 8-97169-910-0 which can be found in an illustration on myisuzuparts.com for anyone that might have the same problem.

the shop tore if off and the problem is gone. should I replace it? obviously it had a purpose.

I have a 2002 Rodeo 3.2l v6 and had the same problem very recently. The noise slowly got worse, always right at 2500 rpm and I couldn't figure it out until it got bad enough, the flex pipe had rusted thru and was leaking pretty bad. I looked around online and found no simple fix, the only answer I found was to replace the whole Y pipe so I took it to the shop and they welded on a new flex pipe for $200.