#1 On the parts rig, everything will interchange except the front end parts, as the 85 is solid axle (VERY desireable), and the 87 is IFS.
Both have the 22Rx. You'll have to see if they are carbed (22R-- has round air filter housing on top);
or EFI (22RE) You'll see the air tube and t'body on top.
If you have one of each, you can tear them down to the long block and be interchangeable. EFI is your hill climber; gravity on carb gives it trouble. Both are easy to work on; we have FSM's sticky'd over in the early Toys section. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
The W56 and G52 trannys are good swaps, with a little floor pan work for the xfer case shifters. The data plate with this info is on the engine firewall. Check our Toyota FAQ in the header above. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
Questions:
With the 33" tires, are the gears still stock (4.10), or were they bumped up to 4.88's or 4.56's. The stock gears with those tires is hard on that little ol' mill.
Being's it's getting so Kalifornicated in Idaho, ask if it has Fed or Kali emissions. I'd stay away from it if it were Kali, but that's just me. Are emissions tests current, if applicable?
Check the inner birfields for presence of grease; the felt washers and stuff blow out on these.
Make sure you have all the jack kit stuff; should be stashed in one of the cubbies in the back. Also make sure the spare tire comes down. These things need a shot of PB Blaster and antiseize once in awhile.
Make sure you have a 33" spare! Make sure fuel gauge works. The wiring gets brittle on these old gals. Luckily in the early Runners you can access the tank pump under the rear pax seat. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />
Make sure rear window goes down via front control and rear key control. This is a problem area over time too; usually dirty switches or broken wiring. Same goes for all those power windows and the sunroof. Grab a hose and leak check that sunroof too. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />
Check the bed area and frame for rust; Toyota's downfall in these rigs.
Make sure you ask what kind of a lift is under there, and make SURE the front end isn't blocked. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" /> Also see if the LSPV for the brakes on the rear axle has been lowered; if not, check the front brake pads, as the front brakes will be enduring more force with the LSPV out of position to sense a load. I think 4Crawler has a writeup about it on his website. Also check the driveline to see if it's been shimmed for the geometry. There's an article on driveline basics in our Toyota Tech writeups above.
To get both of them for $2500 is awesome. If the wrecked one would still run once the core was fixed for the radiator, you could flip it.
My plugged nickels. We've got a very talent bunch here, so SEE? You don't even hafta shop for a new website! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />
