The 2nd t-case will only help you out off-road, not on road. Unless you swap in a 4.3 or Supra engine, all of the mod's you are considering wont have the same effect/increase in power as regearing will. Also any HP you do gain wont be fully realized because of the gearing issue, and it is very unlikely that the cam and head would give you the garaunteed 10% increase in performance that the 4.56's will. Also, if you figure you will be towing the tent trailer on a usual basis, or if you live in the mountains/travel there often, you might even consider getting 4.87's over the 4.56's. Both are oem gear sets, and should run you about $150-250/diff. The 4.87's would allow you to eventually run 33's with the lift you have and still retain the stock gear ratio.

THanks for the input on the 261C. I was emailing engnbldr and he also thought the 261C was the right camshaft for my situation. A 2nd opinion is always nice.

Given that I have a 5 speed manual transmission I am just not quick to jump on the concept of regearing. My 4Runner does just fine at highway speeds until I hit a hill or a strong headwind. I can always downshift to compensate but the lack of power is still an issue. Even at 4500 RPM the 4Runner is not capable of acceleration going up a hill at highway speeds. If I could find used 4.56 differentials for a reasonable price I would do it in a heartbeat but the cost of buying the ring and pinion gears and having them professionally installed is a small fortune. I would rather put my money into lockers and camshaft. As for my exhaust it really works fine the way it is. And adding the 261C camshaft should make even more use of my expanded exhaust. I still dont have a feel for how much horsepower I will get with the new camshaft. 2HP? 5 HP? 10 HP?

The other mod (or perhaps its considered a repair) is to replace my fuel injectors. My gut feel is that I am not getting a good spray pattern. By the time I get the intake system apart I may as well replace them given the effort/time involved. I havent yet heard of any easy way of testing them on the vehicle. I dont have any equipment for such a test.

As for my vehicle lift I disagree about suspension lift being wasted. My rock crawling adventures usually are very technical and the extra clearance is a huge bonus even if the differential is not raised. That being said I know the body lift is of little use. I believe it would help the aerodynamics of the 4runner if it was lowered close to the ground. The aerodynamic difference is minimal when we are talking about the rocker panels being 20" or 22" off the ground. The best way to improve the aerodynamics of any truck would involve having a smooth, flat, lightweight panel covering the entire underside of the vehicle. I have a 21ft motorhome that is designed like this. It is completely flat (the underside of the vehicle) from front to rear and gets 20MPG. Yes, a motorhome that gets 20MPG. Toyota could learn something about aerodynamics from the Vixen Motorhome company.

Pull 'em and get them reconditioned; save some coin.

www.witchhunter.com
www.rceng.com

Send your CS injector along as well.

You are right about not wantng to pay for a new gear swap if you are only going to go to 4.56's. However if you are going to pay someone to install the lockers, $200 more per diff really isn't that much, and most of the work is already done just to install the locker. Also if you pull the 3rd members and IFS center section and take it to a shop you can save several $100's in labor.

You can usually find used IFS front diffs for under $150, I paid $250 for a used one w/5.29's and a tru-trac for my '91 flatbed. The rear w/new ARB and 5.29's was only $1150 through Davez off road, not sure what the shipping would be, but they do ship. You can find them through the Pirate 4x4 venders site.

What is the mileage on the engine, have you adjusted the valves, what is the compression numbers? If the comp numbers aren't in the high 160's it might be pointless to add a cam and head w/oversized valves w/o rebuilding the engine.

What is the mileage on the engine, have you adjusted the valves, what is the compression numbers? If the comp numbers aren't in the high 160's it might be pointless to add a cam and head w/oversized valves w/o rebuilding the engine.

________________________________________________________

>>>*A very true statement here. We see a lot of folks bolt in a camshaft profile and expect to feel serious gains, when the fact is that without the foundation, nothing helps.

*I am bored this morning so here we go....

The first step is to test compression. If those numbers check out good and are uniform, then adding airflow can help.

Remember all that any camshaft and head combo can do is add potential, it simply increases available airflow volumes, this is all there is to it. I suppose I could claim a "secret" camshaft design, but I would be fibbing, there are no secrets. It's not a good idea to fib when the customer has your phone number... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Inside your engine there is a fire. Think of what happens to a fire when you open the draft? The influx of available air causes a sudden increase in flame, now add some fuel to the available air, that tells the story.

Performance gains are a balancing act. If the exhaust is too large, things slow down. To speed the flow back up, we run the engine at a faster pace. Cam designs with more lift/duration on the exhaust side are aimed at making power by spinning the engine faster.

More lift/duration on the intake side adds fuel/air volume potential, this only works if the engine can use it.

Otherwise, adding intake mods is a bit like trying to pour 6 gallons into a 5 gallon bucket. This is why slightly larger inlet valves work well, great big ones don't unless we force things a little, then they do..

Oversize tires reduce engine speed at all given MPH's, add in leverage from them being larger, and mass plus rolling resistance and we can see the probable results. Then increase airflow to that situation and the results can be less than we expect.

To compensate some with a cam design, the idea is to open the valves sooner and more, give things a head start. There are physical limitations of course, but this is why advancing a cam profile works within reason.

So when the situation is oversize tires, stock gears, and exhaust system a bit too large? We would in theory want to advance the intake lobe centerline, and leave the exhaust side alone.

We can do that a tiny bit but core blanks come in mostly precut, and air doesn't grind well. Sure we can have a special design made just for a specific situation, I can see the ad now "Only $2995.00, buy it now...$3000.00".

So to do this the intake valve ramp is quickened, which just means the valve opens at a faster rate and early. Of what I offer, the 261C is closest to that. There is very likely somewhere around 50 different camshaft part numbers doing something similar, I think my lobe shape runs quieter but then I am prejudiced...*LOL**.

The bottom line is when the tires are larger than stock, and you need a bit more power? Think gears, this is number one. Exhaust system is number two on the list of things to do, it seems the factory wanted the engine nice and quiet so they strangled it with a system that would work well on a Briggs and Stratton.

(You folks with the 3VZE? Go look at your stock system..Good grief!... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />...)

Then adding that camshaft design can put a real smile on your face....*EB

As others mentioned, I'd start with gearing. Consider what you are working with and how much money you want to throw at it. I personally feel that any cost-effective power gains you get out of a 22re are not going to be significant enough to make a difference. Also, you will get used to whatever power you end up with very quickly, and it will still be gutless. So in my mind, it isn't worth throwing money at it in the form of a cams or other types of head work.

Gearing and good exhaust is the best bang for the buck. As others have mentioned, going too large on the exhaust can hurt you. 2.25" is generally accepted as a good exhaust size. I'd consider doing 2" to the cat myself. I wouldn't bother with the intake. Run it w/o the air filter for a bit and see if you can tell a difference. I didn't.

Sorry, but that lift shoudl go. It is going to hurt you on the highway and it is not necessary to rock crawl. I run 33's with zero lift and have taken my rig through many trails in Moab, including the more hardcore ones such as Pritchett Canyon. You only need a lift for tire clearance. 31's don't need lift. Also, you will be less tippy without a lift.

Make a set of rock sliders, a stout rear bumper, and get a low-profile transmission cross member. Then you don't need a lift as you can simply slide over tall obstacles.

Dual t-cases are great, but I feel that they may rob a little power in high-range. My rig seemed to lose a few hampsters on the street after I put my dual cases in. Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't trade it for anything, but if you are trying to wring every last pony out of your rig, it may be something worth researching. If it is true that they do rob some power, then maybe you should just get lower t-case gears.

If you really want extra power that you will notice day after day, an engine swap is your best option.

your biggest and cheapest power gain would be weight loss.

my wife's stock wore out 22 re runs circles around my built 22 re with a 500 pound tool box full of crap in the back.

I took my tool box out and holy crap what a difference. it would light up the 36 inch swampers in first AND SECOND.
but out in the middle of no where I feel better having tools and spare parts.
mine, over sized valves, doa cam, bored 20 over, arp rod bolts. new oil, water pumps from toyota.. had it balanced and blue printed, line bored. header, redid the injectors, intake. new muffler and cat 2.25 inch. spent about 2800.00 on everything... not worth it.

a do over would be a fuel injected 302 or 351 Windsor ford motor with the t 5 manual transmission.
of course those 6 cylinder 4.3????? chevy motors are pretty good also.

but from everything that I have seen more power means more money and more broken parts. so bigger motor, bigger axles.. bigger trans...
after just a short while you are better off sticking your toyota body on a full sized truck with dual cases. like a one ton chevy, ford, dodge.. then it is no longer a toyota.
toyota's are so reliable in a big part to the lack of power from the motor.

really stock,, just look at the toyota world.
over sea's they load them down with 2 to 3000 pounds of stuff, out run people in the desert.. and they are shooting at them..
I saw a picture of a toyota with a fricking top.. the turret of a tank mounted on it. lol.. I would think that when you fired it, it would tip the truck over.
I am friends with several pro rock crawlers. twisted customs, riggins, jeepman, well riggins was there, we had just moved a 2000 pound rock as part of our trail maintenance,, (to save a tree).
and got into a talk, I said that I think the stock 85 toyota is the toughest, most capable 4x4 ever built.
stock now....
the only thing the group could come up with was a mercedes something that came stock with front and read lockers, big diesel motor, and portal axles.. not a cheap public 4x4.. not cheap like the toyota.

any one know the new, 1985 price for a all out toyota?? I would guess at around 8000.00.
look at the top gear movies, they could not kill the truck.

going to try to look it up now..

mine.



my wife's

oh,, I have dual stock cases and she has the 4.7 marlin's. in a single case with dual shifters,, and I think I like hers better. I am always on my front drive shaft and she doesn't have that issue.
hers one shifter is on the transmission and the other is on the top of the transfer case. doesnt seem to bind up like mine.. she can shift in and out of 4x4 easy.. I some times have to turn while pushing on the lever to get it out of 4 wheel drive.
I do like my low... and low low... vs her high/ low low... I run in low alot. but hers is high or low low. if that makes sense. but hers.5th gear low is just a bit lower then first gear high. so she doesn't have the over lap of gears like i do. her's still has the 4.10s. mine 5.29's.. she is getting the 5.29s and the long's axles are here in the box.