Does anyone have a part # for the Victor Reinz front crankshaft oil seal ? I'm hoping to track down an "offset" relocater version so I can avoid the whole speedy sleeve route if I can. I've priced the speedy sleeve anywhere from $ 43 to $ 64 !!! our local Napa have a Victor JV912 oil seal for $ 22.69 but the guy couldn't tell if it was an offset relocater type or not. I'd rather pay $ 30 for an offset seal than $ 100 for a speedy sleeve + the seal.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Give EB a call... He has the early 22R sleeve and seal kits for $18 +$5 shipping.

Yup... Thats a sleeve AND a seal to go with it.

Thanks, what's EB ?

Talk about speedy service, thanks netgodsrdn2 !

You'd be amazed just how much oil your 22R engine can lose with a leaking front crank seal, twice now I've checked engine oil level and found nothing on the stick ! this was after adding oil and driving maby 100 miles.

Except for a few cranky radiator hose clamps on my 81 2wd pickup, pulling the flywheel went real easy, it doesn't have AC or power steering so I was able to use a vise-grip chain clamp on the front (unused) pully on the Harmonic balancer to hold it while I used a length of pipe on a breaker bar to get the crankshaft pully bolt undone, the Harmonic balancer slipped right off without using a puller.

To clean the seal area, protect the crankshaft surface from damage and keep crud from entering the engine I made up a simple piece of exhaust pipe, just had to wrap it a few turns with tape and it fit snugly into the seal. using a thin wall piece of pipe means it will slip over the crankshaft without disturbing the woodruff key.






Instead of using a speedy sleeve I plan on using a seal from a 1994 22R/RE, part # 90311-45014, which measures 7mm thick as compared to my original seal at 11mm. this should reposition the sealing surface away from the groove worn into the pully hub.

I've seen that front seal leak a quart in 5 miles - is Eli on this list? It makes a mess!

Let us know how your fix works out after a few K miles.

Same here. Then I realized that I still had oil pressure in the engine even when two quarts down. I filled the engine with oil, while running, till it started to leak faster out of the seal and then drove home by the flattest route possible. When I changed the seal I drained just over two quarts out of the engine and filter.

-- Bryan

Original 12mm wide seal on the left, new 7mm wide seal on the right, part # 90311-45014 original part for 1994 22R/RE. Installation on 1981 22R.




The flywheel seal bore also measures 12mm deep.

Because of the position of the lip on the new seal you'll want to position the seals face 1mm back from the front face of the timing chain cover, if you push the seal to the back of the bore it's lip will end up riding in the groove created by the old seal.
New seal installed.

This photo shows the proper depth so the seals lip will ride on an unworn area of the flywheel stub.

Used silicone to help seal between the crankshaft and flywheel bore.

Old water pipe connector and piece of pipe worked well to tap the seal in.

The leak has now stopped we'll see how it holds up.

The easy way to remove the crank pulley bolt is to put your socket and breaker bar on the bolt, put a pipe over the breaker bar, lay the pipe on the frame, and crank the starter. Works on all engines except Hondas, which rotate backwards.