Hi all, I'm building up a 22R engine, so far these are the operations I've got on my list:
resurface flywheel
align bore block
deck block with timing cover installed
bore for .020" over pistons
hot tank block

Here are some things I'm not too sure about:
resurface/crown rocker arms? (can a good shop do this?)
install freeze plugs?
polish crank journals? balance crank?
anything with the rods?
what else?

I'm looking at a complete head from engnbldr with a new cam, so I'm only going to have lower end work done locally. I can balance the rods and pistons at home.
thanks for any info

>>>*You actually already pretty much have the list of what is normal.

The first step is to clean everything, and check for cracks/flaws.

Then measure and bore to round/straight. Yes, deck the block with the cover attached, this assures a good seal area. That gets missed a lot.

About one out of ten blocks require the main line to be honed, and check the thrust bearing seat area for wear or damage.

On balancing the crank, we find perhaps one out of ten there that we will actually need to move material, most simply check out fine.

Have the rods checked and resized if needed, then be sure the rods and pistons all weigh the same to within 4 grams or less, that will make her run smooth.

Nearly any shop can reface the rocker arms, I personally prefer that to any current aftermarket ones, they all seem to be pure aluminum. The OEM ones are an alloy that has less expansion so the pads stay in place better. Check the adjuster screw ends, too. That classic hourglass wear shape suggests replacement.

The crankshaft can be measured and polished, be sure to clean the oil galleys if you reuse a shaft. That one gets missed, too. If out of spec at all, have it remachined to the next undersize. This engine design is vertical so the rod journals can become slightly oval since many of these have seen thousands of miles of use.

One point on the crankshaft, if badly worn, be sure the shop can index machine it. This is a fixture that assures all of the crankpin centerlines are equal distance or you end up with four different piston heights. If wear is slight, we don't bother as it won't be affected.

*About it, easy job for any good shop....*EB

I was hoping you would chime in on my post, Ted. You answered some questions for me when I rebuilt the top end a few months back.

It just so happens that I work in a machine shop with a magnaflux machine, so I planned to check all the internals for cracks.

One more question, do your heads come with a 3-angle valve grind? What is the signifigance of this? Seems like I hear about it all the time, but what's it really worth?

And what about the freeze plugs?

Ted ,question

What about instructions for piston , crank and rod clearances/tolerances?
In my limited experience , seems most "machine shops" get it close and usually end up at the upper end of tolerances . Sure the engine runs good , it's easier for the shop , but perhaps the longevity isn't going to be as good
Should you (for ie.) include instructions to end up with .015 clearance for the pistons etc. and what should you expect to pay extra for the shop to be a little more careful?

thanks

>>>*I will get both questions in one post, see how efficient I am?.. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />...

ALL valve jobs involve three angles at least, even those rare engines using a vertical throat angle, rare but some do. There simply is no other way to do it properly.

Some shops might just machine the face angle, that only works well if the seat didn't need work in the first place.

The seat width is as important as the point of contact, so machining the valve seat involves remachining the top angle, typically 30 degrees, the face angle (where the width is involved) to 45 degrees, (some are 30 degrees, and other variations) and the inside bowl entry angle, this can vary a lot depending on what the machine shop wants to do.

We hear of the "5 angle" and "8 angle" valve jobs, of course this would work in dealing with just air, but there is fuel to consider. Air can make a turn of more than 7 degrees, fuel can't and needs about 1/10th of an inch or so depending on velocity to recover.

Thus I call that stuff puffery, and some disagree. But I am older so I get to be right even if I am wrong and those whose disagree need to do like my son does.

Nod, smile, and then ignore me...*LOL**..

Now on clearences....Any good machine shop can set them anywhere they want, give them a few ten thousandths to play with and that should not be a problem.

Personally, I do not like minimum specs on anything, the reason is that there is no margin for error or upset and often we are dealing with private parties that may not have the full skills of someone that assembles and tunes every day, all day.

So .0015" minimum means .0018" to .0020" to me typically. Now if the customer requests minimum that is what I do.

Of course then they get my full length lecture and those who know me have learned to shut up and let me do my thing, it will work...*EB