>>>*You actually already pretty much have the list of what is normal.

The first step is to clean everything, and check for cracks/flaws.

Then measure and bore to round/straight. Yes, deck the block with the cover attached, this assures a good seal area. That gets missed a lot.

About one out of ten blocks require the main line to be honed, and check the thrust bearing seat area for wear or damage.

On balancing the crank, we find perhaps one out of ten there that we will actually need to move material, most simply check out fine.

Have the rods checked and resized if needed, then be sure the rods and pistons all weigh the same to within 4 grams or less, that will make her run smooth.

Nearly any shop can reface the rocker arms, I personally prefer that to any current aftermarket ones, they all seem to be pure aluminum. The OEM ones are an alloy that has less expansion so the pads stay in place better. Check the adjuster screw ends, too. That classic hourglass wear shape suggests replacement.

The crankshaft can be measured and polished, be sure to clean the oil galleys if you reuse a shaft. That one gets missed, too. If out of spec at all, have it remachined to the next undersize. This engine design is vertical so the rod journals can become slightly oval since many of these have seen thousands of miles of use.

One point on the crankshaft, if badly worn, be sure the shop can index machine it. This is a fixture that assures all of the crankpin centerlines are equal distance or you end up with four different piston heights. If wear is slight, we don't bother as it won't be affected.

*About it, easy job for any good shop....*EB