New to the forum here and thought I'd share my ride. I picked up a rodeo to drive while I tear my car apart for rebuild. I've been reading about the SAS's that have been done and like what I see. I'm looking in to getting a low pinion jeep axle and flipping it for the rodeo and toss on a set of 35s.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p309/md3turbo/autos001.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p309/md3turbo/autos002.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p309/md3turbo/autos003.jpg

Welcome to the group <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> Could you clarify a bit on the above? It reads like you are talking about buying an axle and turning it upside-down to use on your Rodeo.

That is correct, Jeeps run high pinion or low pinion depending on model and or year. Get a low pinion install high pinion gears and flip it to the right side (and some other mods) and it should make a pretty decent axle.

I'd do a little more research first. Jeep does have high pinion axles, but what Sean is getting at is you're assuming the gears in a high pinion rotate in reverse, which would be wrong... do not confuse reverse cut with reverse rotation gears. In a high pinion axle, the gears are cut opposite of standard gears which makes them stronger in applications where the pinion is above the centerline, however, they rotate in the exact same direction as standard gears.

If you do what you say, you'll find yourself stuck driving around in reverse! If you want to convert a driver's drop front axle to passenger side, you need to be thinking retubing or selling it... flipping it isn't going to give you what you're after.

-Rob

I found a post over in the jeep section where some one swapped his low out for a high. With a side by side picture, I see what you talking about.
I guess I'll grab a HP from the yard and swap the tubes.

I have about 90% of the front end finished up. I still need to do some thing about steering and brakes.









I need to find new springs, I welded the upper spring mounts on with an estimate of the springs compressing about 2.5-3". When I let the rig down on the springs, it only compressed about .5". Even with one of the big guys bouncing on the front end it barely moved.

wow, bringing back an old thread! nice work though... a couple of questions for ya...

geez, what do you plan on doing about the front driveshaft and what looks like obvious interference with the upper control arm? is there enough clearance in that cross member to allow the control arm to articulate?

and was there a reason you moved the axle so far forward with a link setup? since it won't be traveling backwards due to the link setup... are larger tires in your future?

your strut setup is interesting, any reason you choose that over a more traditional seperate coil and shock?


interesting build, keep us updated. we don't see a linked SAS Rodeo's often!

-Rob

The drive shaft issue will be fixed with the crossmember, I plan on using a Toyota transmission and doubler transfer case. With the doubler the drive shaft out put will be farther back and down some, it will also require a different crossmember. Currently the shocks are at near full extension so there is no interference with the upper bars. The coil overs are take offs from a Toyota and were cheep, if needed I can use a standard coil over or separate ones. With the current lift I can clear 40's no problem, I plan on a 38" tire for off roading and 37" H1 tires for road use.