I wouldnÆt say you bought a bummer, it runs and itÆs in good shape, right? Just realize that with that rear end, you are better off keeping it in stock form, and drive the piss out of it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />) Mine is still all stock and love and get decent mileage. I have my truck to play with if I want to get dirty. Just read up on the transfer case and only use the different 4wd's in the conditions they are intended for. The 242 only has the diff in the transfer case in one of the shifter positions, the others will work as a normal transfer case and will rip things up if you use them on non-slippery surfaces.
Sean

"It pulls straight..." ???????? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Seriously, you didn't buy a "bummer", Rob; you bought an old style station wagon type auto with two wheel, all-wheel drive, and part time four wheel drive that includes hi and low range modes of operation. As you probably understood when you purchased the Cherokee, the cherokee isn't a true offroad rig without serious and expensive modification. Too late to have any buyers remorse about your purchase, now! just wheel with what you have. Best advice I think is for you to purchase an owners manual, if you haven't got one, and read the darn thing! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Yeah, I read that, was cleanin it up and found teh binder with teh book and all teh original warranty stuff and everything!
Sounds like the regular 4h and 4l work like normal.
What do you mean by stock?
It's gotta have a lift and new 31' tires!
(by the way, what lift do you guys recommend?)
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

Well like I said, with that Dana 35, I would keep it stock and drive the piss out of it, and have it last till 200K with no issues, but thats just me. The 35 will hold up to 31's from what I have read, but if it was me, I would just drive it. What gears are in it? Manual or Automagic transmission?

Sean

I like what Sean said above, and agree that it would be best to keep the Cherokee in its original stock condition without installing a suspension lift kit. Installing taller tires puts stress on the steering, suspension and driveline components over time which can result in serious downtime offroad or on the highway, eventually. I would only recommend lifting the rig if your offroad driving conditions require more ground clearance or greater approach, departure, and breakover angles.
Once you start changing the original design criteria, you create new unplanned weak-links in the driveline, steering, and suspension assemblies. One of the most obvious results to installing taller tires is the vehicle"s loss of performance acclerating from a stop and braking, for example. Of course, all and any negative results from any modification and be corrected with more modifications (as in more money). The Cherokee is a unibody type vehicle, and I would encourage you not to thrash this vehicle offroad unless you install a full frame under the rig. Have fun with your new vehicle. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Hey fellow TEXAN and my Kia Sportage brother! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I think what they are trying to say is.............The Cherokee is not like our Sportages <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Post a pic of what u bought <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

New Toy

Well, Ya, its not my sporty. But I found the book and did a little research.
It's not a "all wheel drive" vehicle. It has a locking diff between the t-case and the wheels, which acts as a diff in 4x pt and locks in 4w h and 4w l. Its the same t case as the Wrangler + the diff. So 4h and 4l are great for off road.
And yes, the unibody is a week link, if you go real rad with it, but sub frame connectors do exist.
Lots of governments have used these (including our own) for off road stuff and power co.s etc. used them to travel line roads, so it must be pretty capable.
But hey, if I break it....it's paid for, and really didn't cost that much! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Ok, I'm confused. I know what a Chrysler 8 3/4" looks like, but I'm reading that the Jeep can have either the Chrysler 8 1/4 or a Dana 30. I know what the big Dana 60 looks like, I've seen them bolted one to a Hemi. But how do you tell the difference on the Jeeps with the little Dana and the Chry.?

According to all the diagrams I find, I was miss informed, I have the Chry. 8 1/4 axle. Right?

Ok KIA it is hard to tell the difference sometimes.. Measure the space between the U-bolts on it to find the diameter of the axles... The 8.25 has 3" tubes and the 35 has 2-3/4" tubes..
Doing this will tell you for sure what you have.
Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

EDIT! The 30 was a typo... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

First off, it wouldn't be a Dana 30 rear, it would be a Dana 35 rear. But the Dana 35 and the Chrysler 8.25 do look a lot a like. I thought I had the 35 in mine until I went to replace the rear wheel bearings and the ones I got were too small. But like Jim said measure the tubes, the Dana 35 has a 2.62" tube, and the 8.25 has a 3.00" tube. Here is a link from another site that shows the 2 side by side.

http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/C_8.25_Picture.jpg