|
|
Re: Charge and Brake lights on
[Re: sirus027]
#847906
11/21/07 04:42 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 94
OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
|
I guess I'll change the brushes with Toyota factory parts and see what happens. Now I have another question. My left head lamp is dim compaired to the right side. I replaced both lamps and checked the ground on the left lamp, the lamp does get a little brighter with a aux ground hooked to the back of the lamp, but it is still not as bright as the right one. I checked the fuses under the hood and found there to be low voltage at the 7.5 amp fuse, I'm not sure what circuit that fuse is for because the cover is missing and I have no book for this truck as of yet. Any thing I over looked? Thanks for all of the help.
|
|
Re: Charge and Brake lights on
[Re: sirus027]
#847907
11/21/07 05:53 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,854
Roll Me Over
|
Sorry for the hijack, but might be related.
When you guys say to keep the stock alternator, does this mean aftermarket high output alternators are inferior? Can the stock alternator handle high powered amped sound systems? My sound system is pretty mediocre - not that tasking.
I've been having problems with the stock alternator going bad (I went through 2 already in 1 year - should have done the brushes). I went ahead and bought high output alt and now the output is too low at idle (I have to turn off stereo at stop-and-go traffic - totally mickey mouse). Battery is good (red top), maybe something else is wrong with my charging system?
I also shredded another fan belt 2 days ago (that's twice in a year) and blew out the radiator. I've heard that burned out fan belts heat up the grease on the alt bearings and messes them up. Might just put back the stock alt after I do the brushes. What you guys think? This is all very stressful, especially during the holidays (sob). Can you get a smaller pulley on it to get it to spin faster?
89 4Runner 3" BL, M/T locks, 33"bfg mt, bilstein, Kayline, tubebumper, toyotafiberglass panels TBI: Elocker,3.4 w/ORS,b+b,S2Sstg2cams,arias pistons,P+P intake,TRDs/c,URDpullies+7th,downey headers,MAPECU2,WEGO WB, SupraMAF,walboro255,stg4clutch, EPaOo2 sim
|
|
Re: Charge and Brake lights on
[Re: sirus027]
#847908
11/22/07 01:42 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 262
Mudrunner
|
I've been having problems with the stock alternator going bad (I went through 2 already in 1 year - should have done the brushes). I went ahead and bought high output alt and now the output is too low at idle (I have to turn off stereo at stop-and-go traffic - totally mickey mouse). Battery is good (red top), maybe something else is wrong with my charging system? I have the same problem as well with a high output alternator. At warm idle (750-850 rpm), I have no output but as soon as I increase the engine speed to over 1,000 rpmÆs, then it starts charging. I have thought of using a smaller pulley but have not found one yet. If anyone knows of one that would work, please let me know. Otherwise, I might have to have mine machine down smaller.
Adam W. 87 4Runner SR5 - 22RE w RV head & TRD Cam, LCE header, W56B-HD, 4" Stage II, 1.5" BJS, Rancho T-bars, F 5.29, R 5.29 ARB V6 FF w LC disks, 35" MT/R's
85 4Runner frame, 5" Marlin springs, 5:29 ARB HP front. Work in progress - Always!
|
|
Re: Charge and Brake lights on
[Re: D-runner]
#847909
11/22/07 09:26 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 33
Getting the Wheeling Fever
|
Smaller pulley sounds plausible - more revolutions per turn = increase output. Has anybody done this? Where to get smaller pulley? I'll look into this too.
Also, when I installed the higher output alternator, instructions said to bypass the voltage regulator altogether. I called customer support and sure nuf, guy says not to connect volt. reg. I did this and this is where I stand now. Is this normal? Weird that I would have a voltage regulator sitting under the hood not connected to alt. I'm seriously thinking about doing the brushes on stock and putting it back in. Thanks for the inputs.
|
|
|
|