I have never had to do this but the FSM shows that you can bleed the brake master by opening the pipe connections as it doesn't have a bleeder screw. I can't see how to do this without making a mess and then you'll have to bleed the whole thing over again and you'll replace almost all the brake fluid bleeding after this. Give the calipers a couple whacks with a wrench with the bleeder screw open and maybe you'll see a small trapped air bubble come out.

Try stopping on a gravel road in 2wd. See which wheels lock up. Could give a clue.

Does the pedal sink if you hold pressure on it? If so then your master needs a rebuild. It only takes a couple minutes to rebuild it.

It could be that the calipers are binding. They can resist clamping as well as releasing. They should have a grease like plastilube or caliper grease in these places:

Pad retaining pins
Contact surfaces between pad/caliper
Pistons where they contact the pad

For what it's worth, after I put my front end back together, the brakes worked like crap. I hadn't bled the LSPV. That helped a lot.. I suspect you know about this and have bled it, though.

I wish I had an adapter to use my power bleeder on the truck. It works a lot better than mityvac.