[color:"#666666"] Howdy Ma'am [/color] <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

In 400 miles I have not added any coolant and the radiator is completely full. I've checked fluids and watched this thing closely since getting it back together. I am the only driver of this rig.

I don't think the muffler would still be full after 400 miles. Initially, I disregarded the smoke because I figured that the muffler was full - coolant was dripping out of it before I tore the engine down. I do not have a CAT - wasn't on there when I bought it and I have not added one back - no testing required here.

I'm still suspecting the head. I wish now that I would have just bought a new one - probably will just shortly !!

There is no leak down tester to be found locally, I guess that I'll just build me one today. The good news is that it's running and I can use it - this is not my daily driver.

Thanks for the input ! I've been a regular poster over on Yotatech for years - I just read and lurked here. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

In regards to building your own leak tester, do you know what size the orifice should be to use the 'standard' leak rates?

I just did a Google search and several DIY post came up.
I don't want to measure the percentage - I just want to know where it's leaking.

One 400 mile trip may have cleaned it out. Twenty 20mile trips wouldnt have. Might be worth a drill bit to the muffler. FWIW my cracked head sipped fluid for a year, when it was clear what was going on it would fog the valley with smoke when I started it up after sitting awhile. Neighbors thought it was the misquito machine. Better keep a head on you're Christmas list tho. Good luck with her.

Sounds to me like a problem with the valve seals, similar to a typical small block chevy.
My wife's firebird does the same thing, smokes at start up, and smokes at hot idle...

>>>*One point to make here is that thr compression rings control compression, the oil rings control oil.

You can remove the oil rings completely and get a normal compression reading, so external testing such as a compression test or even a leakdown test is at best an indicator.

Oil can get into the cylinder from just three sources. It can pass upwards by the rings, it can come down through the oil seals, or some type of outside introduction.

Since you had coolant getting into the cylinders prior, my best guess might be some stuck oil rings, or they simply failed.

One test we use for this is to have someone rapidly work the throttle, we call it "jazzing" it. This will result in bursts of smoke if the rings are the issue.

The part here that isn't quite right is the heavier smoking at idle and part throttle? This would suggest perhaps some oil seals not properly seated or the wrong size/type. The factory type steel clad with Viton lining are a bit expensive, there are some less than desirable options and the temptation for some shops might be to use the cheaper alternatives. I have seen several heads now with a seal similar to the old Datsun L20B design and those simply will leak oil. Not to say this is what you have but worth looking at, those seals are 20% of the cost of the steel clad and ..well..worth every penny.

The $185 figure you mention is very low for a weld repair, valve job, guides, resurface and seals, by about $100-$150 locally and here in Oregon we are a bit lower than many other parts of the Nation. That alone makes me a tad suspicious.

One other possible is if the guides bores were damaged driving out the old guides?? This can create a channel outside the guide that will leak oil and that does fit your description perfectly since the amount of oil could be more at idle (maximum vacuum and volume/engine speed) than at highway speed.. That can happen and it has happened to us, the solution if you find this is to rehone the guide housing bore and install an oversize OD guide.....*EB

Wow - Thanks for the response engbldr

I to suspect the oil seals, the shop had a hard time getting them and I don't know where they came from. I drove the runner today for about 70 miles - it runs good and I exceeded 70 mph several times.

Funny, you should mention "jazzing the throttle" that is when I see the most smoke. Good info regarding the normal compression reading and still the possible stuck oil ring. I visualized that in my head yesterday. I ordered a leak down tester today and it should be here next week - no big hurry on my part - for the moment oil is cheap.

I pulled the new spark plugs when I got home today. All were tan and looked normal - I may let it idle until the smoke starts to get heavier and pull them again. The oil level was full this morning and is still right on the full mark this afternoon. I never see any smoke while driving unless I stop for a light or stop sign - and then pull out. The longer it idles - the more smoke I see. Obviously, it smokes in my driveway idling and Jazzing the throttle.

For the moment, I'm going to keep driving it. If a ring is stuck - maybe it will unstick.

Thanks again for the response, I need help sometimes making me think a problem through.

Just an update for you guys. The cylinder leak down tester showed up and was pretty much inconclusive. I have 170 lbs of compression in all 4 cylinders. Using the leak down tester with each cylinder at TDC - #1, #2 and #4 cylinders showed 20 - 25% leakage which is the low side of the tester gauge. The #3 cylinder showed 40% leakage - air could be heard at the dipstick only - suggesting rings. I removed the valve cover and inspected the valve stem seals through the springs and all are new rubber with a spring style seal at the top. No leakage was detected through the valves at the intake or exhaust.

This engine runs great with good power - it just smokes at idle and every stop sign and red light produces a cloud of smoke behind me. This afternoon, I was wondering around in Advance Auto Parts and found a bottle of Rislone compression restorer - it is supposed to free sticking rings and fill in scratches in the cylinders - what the heck - it's only $10.00 Results were almost immediate - the engine virtually quit smoking within 3 miles.

With the normal compression readings and engbldrs comment about a possible stuck oil ring - maybe I did have a stuck ring. I'll continue to monitor the smoking and oil usage - I may get lucky here !

If not, I'll rebuild the engine and order a new head in the spring.

Merry Christmas to all !!!!!!!

>>>*I did similar to an old Ford sedan once, I used Marvel Mystery oil, same result.

*Freed up the rings, lasted maybe 3 months then started smoking again.

I pulled the right head since it had dual exhaust so I knew it was that side, dug the oil rings out with a screwdriver and washed them, they were gooped up pretty good because the rig sat for 3 years.

I put the used rings back in, (The parts store wanted $11 for a new engine set, dang thieves!... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />...)...drove her for 3 years before a rod broke. That was an old 1956 272" V-8...But sometimes a can of chemical might get you by for awhile...*EB