Just wondering why you put the torque rod back in? I'm putting a lift in my 81 and same thing too short go figure!
I've noticed most lifted toyota's dont have it installed. There was a adjustable one on ebay for over $100. but why waste a bill or hasle with it when I see so many without one installed.

I also noticed were mine mounts to the frame there's some cracks have you seen this before? I'm new to the toyota (ex chevy guy)and you seem to know your way around one. Good looking truck thanks for sharing your project. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I'd replace the torque rod. I talked to a guy around town with a lifted '83 with 35s. He slammed on the brakes at 70 and the front axle wrapped so bad that the springs bent and he rubbed against a conrete divider.

torque rod elimenates spring wrap on the front , VERY improtant .. you dont want to eliminate this on a "daily driver"

at slow speeds , offroad, rock crawler it's not necessary , due to articulation restrictions .. but on any insured driver , it is absolutly imperative you keep it .

removing it will affect braking , steering .. and a raft of other necessary functions .

fix it , and keep it .






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Thanks for such a fast reply I 'll be welding soon!Good bye heavy chevy's This little toyota's gona be helli fun! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

If and only if you have the stock steering.
Mine (and most) is/are fine without it. Yes, DD duty. 80mph on the highway too, no issues.

I wanted to finish up the rear bump stops .. so I unbolted the originals and removed





made some new "low profile" .. and installed





.

started a bit of work on the rear emergency cable .

started with cleaning up some of the brackets , and making new ones ..




the main "swivel" mount was tapped . leveled and welded .






I picked up some 90* 's off the front cable , (on the firewall) 79-89toys from White Valley Collision



got them all cleaned up ..



I went to incert the cable .. for a test fit .. and found they wouldnt work .. the inner wheel was plastic , as well as not the right fit for the cable ... I didnt think the plastic was strong enough either ..



so I lagthed some new wheels ..



and now cable fits perfect ..





made the new mount brackets ..

[img]http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2/bj_bumperboy/MY%20Trekker/HPIM0730.jpg[/img]

braced and tacked into place ..

[img]http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2/bj_bumperboy/MY%20Trekker/HPIM0731.jpg[/img]

They seem to be good , although I do have about 1-2 mm of deflection .. I either need to brace them better , make some more supports .. or re-do the brackets in a thicker material ..


.

so i'm basically FINISHED the emergency cables ..

I decided to weld in a support bracket .. I used the same 1" pipe I have been using for the other supports .. a little continuety .



They are now 100% with zero deflection ..
I also added 1 more support for the cable , didnt want it "rubbing" against the shock body ...





and now I just have to "crimp" the cables .. and done .



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I'm surprised that you didn't choose Front Range Off Road Fabrication's Full Floater Conversion for your rear axle. Especially with a blown 5VZFE in your future plans. Not to say that I don't admire your work so far. -- Matt <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

not necessary .. Toyota rear axles are larger then chev 1/2 ton ..

buddy had a 327/350hp in his rig (almost beat my Vett in a race ) ..stock toy axles and 36" swampers .. never a problem .. and I'm NOT that aggressive .

besides .. this rig is NOT a rock crawler , it will be a DD /tow rig , as I have stated !! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />