Paul --

To use the hoist I absolutely recommend removing the intercooler - it is easy to do and too easy to damage should things get ugly.

Once removed, I believe I removed one of the rear intercooler mount brackets from the head/block and used one of those bolt holes to attach the hoist chain. My hoist as got chains with L-bracket attachments which make this easy; you should be able to come up with something similar, many hoists use this system. The bolts which hold those brackets on look small, but I used a high-grade metric bolt in the hole and it held up without issues. I think it's a 10mm bolt or something (thread diameter).

It's a tight fit to get the intercooler bracket back on once the engine is in, as it's pretty tight up against the firewall, but I don't recall it being much of a hassle. Be sure to use a bolt that is not too long, or you won't be able to remove it. You may have to climb in the engine bay, though... I assume you've already removed the hood?

To attach the front chain, I think I just found another sturdy bolt on one of the accessory brackets and did the same thing. You should not have to do any fabricating, just find a good bolt location and a strong bolt and you'll be in business.

As to the mounts, if you did not receive the mount pads with your engine, I would get some. The diesel pads are different (as you've noticed) and, if used, will allow a perfect, reliable factory fit.

Is it possible Jarco has them and did not ship them? I'd also ask Jerry to see whether the C223 diesel mounts might be the same. Failing that, I would order some from overseas. it would be a pain, but personally I would rather use the factory mounts.
-Adrian

Hi Adrian, take a look at this picture:
http://www.plammer.com/plammer/isuzu/DSCN0249.JPG
This is what was included with the motor, by 'pad' do you mean the piece in the middle? Based on what I have and your comment, I'm thinking I need to get my hands on the mounts for a 91 or older 4JB1 and all should be good. For comparison, here is the original from the 2.6 petrol:
http://www.plammer.com/plammer/isuzu/DSCN0250.JPG

Let me know if you agree that the 4JB1 mounts (equivalent of middle piece in first picture) is what you are suggesting. Sure hope so. On yours, do they have two bolts to mount to the engine bracket?

Your comment about removing the intercooler and hoisting via the head makes sense. I'll go that route.

Thanks!
Paul

Hey overland, do the mounts that came with your 4JB1 match what came off your C223? Curious if the C223 mounts might be the domestic answer to my problem.

Thanks,
Paul

Yeah, I am using the mounts that came with my 4JB1 and they bolt up exactly like the C223 mounts. Looking at them, they are different in shape, but they bolt up the same. The only reason I used the ones that came off the engine instead of my old ones is I didn't want to change them out. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

They look very similar to yours from the gas engine but have two bolts to the engine bracket.

I don't know how yours compares to mine as far as bolting to the frame. On my website in a few of the pics you can see my frame mounts. If yours are the same I'd say the C223 mounts will work. I'm finding a lot of stuff is interchangable even with a 15 year difference, in fact most of my wiring plugged right in but mine was a diesel originally too.

You can have my old C223 mounts to test fit if you want instead of buying some. I'll be in Tacoma Sat. morning, or I can throw them in the mail. Just a thought.....

Paul --

The mount system, as I refer to it, is composed of three parts:

the frame bracket (all steel; welded to the frame rails; flat surface with 2 holes spaced about 4" apart if I recalll correctly);

the pad (steel halves with a rubber cushion holding them together; top half has 2 studs and bottom half has two holes which match the frame bracket bolt hole locations; steel parts also interlock to prevent total mount failure in the event that the rubber becomes separated);

the engine bracket (steel; bolts to block; has two holes inline which match the two studs on the pad)

Hopefully that will get the terminology straight enough for me to write about it clearly. I know it's hard to write about this stuff... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

At any rate, looking at your photos, it seems that you've got the pad and engine bracket from the gas engine in one photo.

The other photo, as near as I can tell (I really don't feel like going out to look in the garage at the moment as it's going to be -10* tonight!) seems to show an engine bracket on the right, and possibly two pieces of a mount pad. It looks like some lazy fool cut the mount out instead of removing the two bolts that secure it to the frame. I can't really tell, though -- were those two pieces once connected?

You should probably try some C223 mount pads, they just may work.

Overland, I'll take you up on the offer. Email me at Plammer (at) live.com and we can exchange phone numbers and figure out where to meet. I'll send you a message via this site too in case that works better.

From the comments, sounds like the C223 mounts are the best answer at this point. I'll try installing on Sunday with the C223 mounts and see what happens. If that works out, I'll find some new mounts for the long run. I checked with Napa this morning, they don't have diesel mounts available for the C223. Guess I'll have to try Isuzu if the test works.

Adrian, I don't blame you for not going out in that cold. Guess I'll have to stop griping about it being 20 here, -10 is too much for me. Thanks for your comments too. Looks like I have a path to take now. Just a matter of seeing how it works out.

Thanks all,
Paul

It certainly sounds like the C223 mounts are the same as the 4JB1 mounts. The 4JB1, C223 and gas engine mounts all bolt to the frame in the same way, so if the C223 will bolt to the engine brackets, I'd say you're set.

Well, good news and less good news. The good news is that I fit the engine and transmission in today. I used the C223 mounts that Anthony gave me. They took some prying to get the holes to line up, but worked out. The less good news is there's no way the original transmission crossmember will work with the auto trans that this engine came with. The mounting point is 6 to 9 inches aft of the original point. (remember, this engine/transmission is out of a 94 and my Trooper is a 91, so more variations result) Currently I have the original crossmember mounted with a piece of plywood above it and the transmission pan resting on it. So, I'm going to have to have some mounting pads attatched to the frame where the crossmember that came with the setup sits. I figure I'll have something made that will attatch to the 'new' crossmember and bolt or weld those to the frame. Not a deal breaker, but a setback from what I was hoping. My ideal was no welding for the engine and transmission mounts. Better the transmission crossmember than the engine mounts in my book.

Another setback is with the setup I have, my brake lines run right through where the down pipe from the turbo would run. So, I'm going to have to bend new brake lines. Again, that differs from my ideal, but something that I can take care of without too much difficulty.

Lastly, it looks that this trasmission used an electric sender for the speedo, so I'm going to have to figure out a way to make my stock mechanical setup work with it, or find an electric speedo that will fit in the stock dash. There may be a simple answer in that maybe the electric sender can be pulled and a mechanical unit fit in it's place. I'll be tackling that one near the end of the list.

I've come to realize that I had under estimated the work involved with this project. I have a tendency of doing that. I knew there would be a lot, but there is turning out to be more than I had anticipated. Fortunately, from what I can see, it's just a lot of leg work and nothing I don't have the abilities to handle. Just that it'll probably be summer before I'm driving this thing instead of spring.

I suffered from target fixation and didn't break out the camera today, not a lot to document really. Though, I wish I had gotten a picture of the flex plate arrangement on it. I'm used to american V8's where the flex plate bolts to the crank, torque converter bolts to the flex plate. This setup has a flex plate mounted to the crank, a roughly 4 inch cast aluminum spacer deal bolted to that, another flex plate bolted to that and the torque converter bolts to the second flex plate. Seems odd to me, but I'm sure there is some good engineering behind it.

Anyway, that's my brain dump from the day of work. I'll get pictures of what I do for the crossmember as that will hopefully prove usefull to anyone doing this in the future.

Paul

Hey Paul, glad the mounts worked. I had to poke and prod mine a little to get them to line up too, so I think that is probably just normal.

Too bad on your crossmember. If there's anything I can do to help, let me know. Hang on to my number and feel free to call, even if just needing a sympathetic ear <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

I know what you mean about underestimating. I thought I would have mine at least running this weekend, but after working like a slave on it all weekend, it doesn't seem like I got anything done. Oh well, it's getting close. No sense getting in a hurry if I want it done right.

Oh, those guys had a reservoir for me, but thanks for the offer. It was good to meet you this weekend.

Good luck <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Paul - Sorry to hear that the transmission does not fit properly. It's too bad there was not any concrete information on the automatics available beforehand, but, as Overland has shown, fabricating a crossmember is not beyond the abilities of the home mechanic. Basic metalworking tools are not terribly expensive, so it could be something you tackle as part of the project yourself.

These jobs are a lot of work, make no mistake. I've been working on mine for almost 3 years now, and I'm still not finished! I need some free time to finish the hood and a few little things before it's ready for the road. Remember to take it one stage at a time and always be ready to walk away when you get frustrated.

I usually set goals based on vehicle systems - I'd decide to tackle the clutch hydraulics, for instance, and just focus on that for a while, not worrying about the rest of the project. It will be completed with this attitude, sooner or later.

And, you always have the forum available for help and advice. It's been an invaluable resource for me, and I think it will be for you, too.