Brain fart.

I bet you are energizing the timing advance solinoid, not the fuel solinoid. Seems I recall the fuel solinoid having a yellow/red stripe wire. I'll look at mine in the morning.

Unless you messed with the injection lines, they shouldn't have lost their prime.

Thanks for the replies. For the injectors, let me clarify that the injection system hasn't been touched since the motor came out of the donor vehicle. The 'dry' part I mentioned before was the fuel inlet hose to the injection pump all the way back to the tank. From the last post, sounds like the injector pump could have held the prime. (I haven't toched the injection lines or the injection system)

I'll have to do some more looking at my wiring set-up. My injection pump has two electrical components, one at the rear, single wire, that I had assumed was the cut off. The one on the front I had tought was for my tach. I hadn't contemplated a timing advance soln'd. I'll have to go back to my books and see what I can find on that.

Overland, please do take a look at the color of the wire to yours and let me know.

Thanks!
Paul

I did confirm that the soln'd that I'm delivering power to is the fuel cut off. So, sounding more like it could be air in the system.

I had primed the fuel system up to the fuel filter, but there would have been air in the line between the fuel filter and the injector pump. So maybe that was drawn into the injection system. I had assumed it would have been sent back out the return line, but maybe that assumption was in error. Anyone agree/disagree with that assesment?

Thanks again.

Paul

Success. Seems like it was air in the fuel system. Didn't have to bleed the injectors, but I did use the prime pump on the fuel filter to run a bunch of fuel through the system. It fired right up after that.

Lot's of little bits to do, first off is to find a new EGR gasket (for the block off plate I made). The original that I reused isn't sealing up very well.

I still haven't tackled the transmission electronics, but have a plan. Most of the work will be connecting the original guages to what is on the motor, securing fuel lines, grommets for wires through the firewall etc. Not bad, but time consuming. More to come...

Thanks again for the suggestions.

Paul

Congrats.

I made a gasket out of a cereal box for my egr block off plates. It worked well and hasn't had a problem sealing. And mine will hit 27 lbs. of boost <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

When I first stared my diesel conversion it was a pain too!
I ended up pulling the glow plugs and hooking up the Motorhome batteries to the car battery to have enough juice to keep turning over the little diesel long enough to prime the injectors. I had to pay attention to how long I ran the starter to keep from burning it up though. But, it was like turning over an engine with no spark plugs. No compression made all the difference. I still took a while but I finally got fuel spray blowing out of the glow plug holes.
Once I saw that, I knew it was ready to start.
Happy to hear youÆve got it running.

IÆm driving my I Mark when ever I donÆt ride my motorcycle.
ItÆs getting about 38 mpg out of it with the AC on. Without AC it gets the same mileage as the bike.

Curtis

It appears I got carried away removing 'unneeded' electics in the engine bay (I forgot the lesson of not throwing away parts). So, now I'm in need of a couple of parts...Might anyone here be parting out a '90 or '91 Trooper? I need the main relay and rear defogger relay plus the wiring that leads to it. Take a look at:
http://www.plammer.com/isuzu/relay_diagram.bmp
That piece with the two relays would sit on the passenger (right) fender. That unit plus the wiring that leads to it (cut at the firewall) would have me set. I don't think I need the headlight relay, I think mine is located somewhere else (luckily).

I plan on hitting some local junk yards this weekend to see if I can pick them up. Hoping someone here might have what I need in case I can't find them.

Thanks!
Paul

That was easy, local junk yard had the parts I needed. Getting close. Need the rear drive shaft that came with the setup mated to the original drive shaft, exhaust done, and at that point it will be ready to drive around...

I do notice that it is hard to start, like it needs glow plugs (which I am not currently using). It's 70-ish here and Overland says he's not using his glow plugs. Could it be just that mine is sitting more and will get better as I actually start driving it/running it?

Anyone know what voltage the 4JG2 needs for the glow plugs? I'm going to do a push button setup to warm them, just concerned that 12V is too much...

Thanks,
Paul

Current status: I just got back my newly modified rear drive shaft. I need to install that, make my push button shift setup for the AT and then have an exhaust put on it. At that point all the big steps will be done and it will just be the many little fit-n-finish fine points. I'll probably ping Overland eventually for some performance tuning help.

Adrian, haven't heard from you in a while. Make any progress this summer? The snow will be back before too long

Paul

Hi Paul -- I've been incredibly busy this summer with grad school and some family health issues, so not much movement on the trooper, unfortunately. I've been checking in from time to time to see where you're at with your project; it sounds like things are progressing nicely. I hope to have some time to devote to it this fall, but I am not going to hold out much hope. It may have to wait until winter break.