this is a previously asked question i made on " worn idler" topic a few subjects ago.( no reply)Question is, my steering freeplay adjustment screw and locknut are seized together as one, not allowing me to make the adjustment on my gearbox, can anyone tell me what would happen if I were to back the two out all the way out of the gearbox itself to try and free them up? I`m hoping that I would not be asking for more trouble if I were to do that! any help would be much appreciated.

Why don't you live on the edge and do it. Some times the answer is so obvious to these folks, they don't bother to answer. If this was a serious issue they would tell you. They want everybody to learn. Of course don't have the engine running and keep track of where you started turning the screw. Stan

This is not an ovbious yes or no thing. In order to know, you (or I) need to look at a diagram of the steering box. It seems that neither one of us (or others) have those at the moment.

Personally, I would not pull that screw until you figure out what it is pushing against.

Michael

Wow, well, at least I got a reply for you from someone who knows everything Isuzu. Listen to him. Stan

I will tell you what - the unit in my rig has the same problem. However, I have the old unit that I pulled out because of bad seals. I have been contemplating pulling the adjuster on that unit to see what would happen.

Your post is finally going to motivate my lazy a$$. I work tomorrow, but I will pull the adjuster on my old unit on Sunday afternoon and post up here with the results.

Are they 'seized' together, or is there just so much crud on there that they are 'stuck' together? The second scenario was the case with mine. I cleaned mine off with a screwdriver and wire brush as best I could, then hit it with PB Blaster every day for a couple of weeks. Backed them out together as you suggested; but just a few turns and not all the way. With it all loosened a few turns, put a box-end wrench around the nut. Put a screwdriver in the slot at the top (to keep it from closing in) and then clamp around that top part with some vice grips (only the part without threads, you don't want to mess those up). Before turning anything, visually bookmark where the wrench and vice grips sit in relation to one another so you know how much things have moved; very minor adjustments make a big difference.

At that point you should be able to push on the wrench while resting the vice grips against the fender or something. Just move it enough to break things loose, then return it all to the position you visually roadmapped.

Take off the vice grips, adjust the screw 1/4-1/2 turn clockwise while holding the wrench so the nut stays put, then take off the wrench and tighten the screw back down all the way with the nut on it. If you did things correctly, the screw will now be in its original position plus 1/4-1/2 turn clockwise. Take it for a drive and see what you think. If it needs more adjustment, loosen the nut only, turn screw another 1/4-1/2 turn, then tight nut back down without allowing screw to turn.

Well, could be because the general consensus say "Don`t do it" That`s why I thought I`d ask! As far as what strawmyers said, I did all that and still could not get the two freed. I understand the whole adjustment part of it. I was wondering if anyone has first hand knowledge on how the adjustment screw actually affects the gearbox. BTW, the"general consensus" were two autoparts store guys and two mechanics. None of which could tell me exactly why they wouldn`t do it, other than because of the complexity of it all. Worthy question I thought. Most of us here believe in making smart decisions when it comes to our rides!

Try again and toss some heat into the equation for good measure, just keep it localized to the screw/nut and minimize exposure to the box itself as I'm sure there are some rubber seals in there somewhere. If that doesn't do it, pulling the whole thing to work on it on the bench isn't going to do any better for you. If they're that seized up, using a big cheater bar or something to that nature is going to twist the screw in half before it does what you're hoping it will do. Just keep at it, mine took a few tries as well. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Well, that was a useless offer on my part. Evidently, in a fit of rare cleanliness, I threw out the old steering gear. Sorry. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

It should be OK. Note, the screw does NOT come out of the cover. It is captured in the top of the sector shaft. The screw threads through the cover and presses the sector shaft down. The further down, the tighter the mesh of the sector shaft / piston teeth.

If you unscrew it, it'll come out for a ways (the steering will get *real* sloppy as the sector raises with it) until the shaft bottoms out against the cover. At that point it should stop turning and you might be able to break the nut free. If you break the screw though, you're... well..., screwed.

To adjust the box once things are freed up, you need to make sure the steering wheel is centered. This is the tightest position. If you turn the wheels, then adjust, it won't steer back through the center position any more. You kinda tighten a little, steer back & forth over the center position, tighten a little more, etc. Stop when you feel it drag going through the center position, back it off a little and tighten the nut.

--Dan