I have checked the timing on my 88 2.6L and am unable to get it above 4 degrees before the distributor runs out of adjusting room. I have the distributor turned all the way toward the firewall and it is still running rough. It almost dies when I turn it back the other way. I can't find any vacuum leaks that might cause it to run rough. I thought about the rubber bushing having turned on the main pulley and I have a gut feel like it is just out of timing. compression check done by recent service shop is good.

I recently bought a new Delta cam and want to install it. Question: Can I set it at TDC and install the cam and reset the distributor without pulling the main pulley and everything else involved in that? The classical Haynes manual I have just says "pull it all!" (alt., air pump, PS pump, Radiator and fan shroud). I have done it before and had to find and getting that main pulley bolt was a real PITA. I had to heat it with a torch and get a new (used) pulley and lower timing cover.

Thoughts??

Given your past problems, I would highly suggest checking all of the timing marks.

You can start with leaving the lower cover and pulley on, but checking if the cam sprocket lines up with the mark on the back cover at TDC. Also double check the timing mark on the dampner at that point.

With the valve cover off, see where the distributor lines up. There are marks on the shaft and the body that should all line up with a mark on the head (under the valve cover by the cam).

I suspect the distributor is off by a tooth, but you have to go back to the basics to make sure.

As for the cam, you can do a cam swap without tearing off the front timing cover, but...you might as well consider it so you can check that lower timing mark. Besides, if you let the timing belt slip when the cam sprocket is off, you will have to tear it all down to re-time everything anyway.

Good luck,
Michael

OK, I tore it all down. I have aligned the crank shaft sprocket (the original marks on the main pulley were off, so I made new ones). The timing belt and new Delta cam are aligned. The distributor is pointin to the number 4 plug wire on the cap or the 10 o'clock position as described by everyone. I have the mark on the distributor shaft straight up toward the cam. It is an AMC head I installed about 30K miles ago. My question is, where is this mark on the cylinder head that I am supposed to align the distrubutor up with? From what I have told you does it sound like its correct?

OK, tell me I am doing this correctly. The small mark on the dizzy shaft lines up with body of distributor. I notice that when I insert the dizzy into the head the distributor rotates as the dizzy gear engages the cam gear. This is ok??? or do I need to compensate and figure out how much to turn the dizzy before I insert it into the head so that it aligns up correctly when it engages the cam gear??

I hope this makes sense.

Anybody?

It sounds like you have everything correct.

For the dizzy, there should be a line on the body and a dimple on the end, below the gear. These need to line up with the end of the tab cast into the support on the drivers side of the head where the end of the dizzy goes.

Yes, you need to compensate such that all three line up with them installed. The intake and exhaust rockers are loose on #4 right(TDC)?

Since you re-scribed marks on the harmonic balancer, are you 100% sure those are right? There is a notch out of the front lip of the crank timing sprocket and a mark on the rear timing cover that need to line up. This does put the keyway on the crank at 12 o'clock. The problem is if the balancer has slipped, then it is likely to slip again and your marks, or any marks, may become relatively useless. Just a warning.

Good Luck,
Michael

Ok, well I am comfortable with everything being aligned. I installed a new belt and tensionor but the timing belt kit doesn't come with a new spring. I noticed my old spring was a little "stretched" on end end of the spring. The last wound, i guess, of the spring doesn't sit like the other end. So I have ordered a new spring. My question is does the spring continually provide the tension for the tensionor or does the bolt that you have to tighten to 14 lbs or so hold the tensionor after the spring initially sets the correct amount of tension?? How critical is this spring to be perfect?