I've put maybe 2000 miles on my 22 r-e after a full rebuild.
The engine idles great and runs OK but not good enough...I think.
It will max out at 70 miles per hour going in 4th gear...and doesn't have the power to put it in the 5th. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
I get maybe 17 mpg in Sweden where the roads are flat and perfect. It sits on 31" BFG A/T and stock height.
I failed the first emission test because of high HC, but passed when I put some methanol in it and drove it really hot. Is this the Toyota 22 r-e engine or is mine special???

Might want to check the ECU for any stored trouble codes:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#TimingCheckConnector

High HC means the engine is running rich, check the O2 sensor, Air Flow meter and the ECU coolant temp sensor and also the thermostat. Could be the engine is running too cool. Also, what gears in the axles? With 31s, you should have 4.56 (manual) or 4.88 (automatic).

the engine isn't running cool, the temp is perfect.
I might wanna check out the trouble codes but i haven't done that bfore. does that work on all models?
The rear axle is 4.56:1 but I don't think thats the problem...the engine just lacks power my friends truck tops out at 110 miles / hour

The dash gauge and the ECU have different temperature senders. So the gauge may say fine, but if the ECU is getting a cold reading, it may put the engine in warm-up mode and pump in extra fuel. Just an guess at a possible cause, not saying this the the cause in your truck.




Yes, details vary as noted.

And don't assume any part is OK, check everything you can. Is the catalytic converter clogged? How about the air filter and throttle body? Injector condition and fuel filter OK? Valves properly adjusted? Timing correct?

High HC means unburned fuel is going out the tailpipe. This usually means an ignition problem [like a spark plug failing to fire sometimes] or a fuel mixture so lean that even a good spark can't ignite it [like a vacuum leak]. Check your ignition timing with the check connector jumped, and while you've got the timing light on it, check that the timing advances with increasing RPMs. You might want to also recheck the valve lash settings.

Valves are tuned and timing is at 5 dgres. Gonna check the trouble codes as soon as I can. Got new plugs, wires and air filter. The condition of the cat is unknown but maybe I'll remove it when the summer comes, to test if it makes a differnce...and the T/B is clean

31's and a 4cyl with chrome rims will eat more gas than the stock LT23575r15 on alloys. The 31's tire and wheel is much more weight to throw around and more friction on the road.

I'm not sure I got the milage convertion right. I usually calculate in litres/100 km. Let's say I usually get 220 miles on a full tank (apprx 58 litres)
How far do you guys get?
I understand that the tires make a bit of a difference but I've heard guys here in Sweden who gets almost 300 miles on a tank with similar conds...and the gas cost twice over here.

What brand of plug did you use?

If Bosch, throw them out, and replace with NGK or Denso Super. Since it is winter, you should be able to advance the timing to 7* as well.

Keep the speeds down to 100 kph, and you should surpass 20 mpg (less than 11.75l/100km).

I'm using NGK?s...and I would only dream of reaching 100 km/h...usually I'm doing 70-80 km/h <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/sleeping.gif" alt="" /> and always driving economical.
Around 12 km/100 km sounds reasonable to me, but I'm not even near that.
Came to think of the sender units and sensors mentioned in earlier posts...when the engine is cold the automatic choke keeps it at 2000 rpm and dropping nicely as the engine gets warmer, can I rule out any of them knowing that?