<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

well, it all started when my motor was installed, ( manufactured engine from engines exhcange) she was slightly smoking. So then i went to carb exchange(not the same co.)i purchased a remanufactured carb.it passed emissions with no problem.
She still smells like fuel, and so does the oil. i then took it to the ppl who built the engine, and they said it was ok and nothing was wrong with it. For a while she wouldnt smoke(it looked white to dark.So now when i drive and i accelerate switching gears i feel a slight bogging( but she wont die).
Then i notice that shell smoke when im sitting at a light, but not while im driving. Now she just doesnt want to accelerate real slow. Now my right hand side is vibrating with a sligh burn smell. I know you guys have seen me submitt this info more that once, but ive been trying to keep up with all these
messages. thanks !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hmmm. Compression test, then retest any cylinder that's more than 15% lower than the others after adding a couple of teaspoons of motor oil through the spark plug hole. That'll tell us whether there's a ring problem or a head/valve/guide problem. Toasty, any of you guys have a tester out that way?

Front end...hmmm, let's check the brake caliper to see if it's sticking. I have two extras if it is. Also probably not a bad time to repack the wheel bearings and re-torque them. I've been asking the 'Crew for years...can someone grind down my Chevy spindle socket so there are only two lugs instead of the six that are on it? That way all of us will have the proper tool and not be using needle nose pliers on them anymore.

John B.

I repacked both bearings, and man those dang bolts are expensive, $5.28, a pop!!

Did you torque them in per shop manual procedure? What kind of grease? And what bolts are you referring to?

John B.

those 6 bolts and yae i greased them. the one's that look like stars?

Allen head bolts.

So did you follow shop manual procedure to reseat the bearings and set their torque correctly?

John B.

yea,

I understand, but this thread doesn't get archived, either.
One of you guys should write a carb article for the Wire. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I don't think any of us really know much about the carbs, we mostly just get really ticked off with them and then resort to a weber conversion as we throw the mikuni in the garbage. I finally decided that weber is way more reliable and alot cheaper.