2 months should be plenty of time for the rebuild, unless you ship things off, or are trying to do the port and polish yourself when you have the spare time, etc. It took me 24hrs to pull it down to the block, and I put it back together in about 16hrs 4weeks later, I was out of town for a week and then down for 3weeks after tearing up my knee.

Using it for a semester project seems like a good idea, and would be your best bet, and would allow you to really go through the it and start off w/a fresh engine.

I only rebuilt the upper end due to a second burnt valve, the bottom end was fine. I left the heads alone. I ghad considered getting the over sized valves along w/port and polish done through DOA, but when I called he was going on vacation and it would be a couple of months before I would get them back, so I just left them stock. The block was bored .040(IIRC) , back in Auguts of '90 after I hydro locked it during a river x-ing. Since it would have been 6 nmonths before a new engine could come in from Japan, the dealer didn't have any choice but to bore the cyls. to get rid of the rust and scarring/ gauges. I think this is the best mod you can do t these 3.0's. A buddy of mine has always commented on how well it performs compared to every other 3.0 Runner or truck that comes into his shop either before or after the repairs.

I think you should be able to weld on a need mount for the reed valve, mine still leaks until it is warmed up and it will be 4yrs this May since the headers were installed.