If I was to use my current D30 or a HP D30 from a ZJ for future modifications, are there any carrier or R&P combos that are known to bee as strong as a D30 can possibly get.
The thing is that I heard that the 4.88 was much weaker than the 4.56 and if I have an open spool it would be doomed and a locker like ARB or OX the only way to go because of added carrier strength.
My head is spinning like crazy these day's since I can't get the same opinion twice and most people tell my I'm nuts trying to fit 38's under a WJ. That just makes me want to proove them wrong no matter the cost. I've settled on using the ford 8.8 from a explorer in the rear but I'm not sure on what to do with the front end, first idea was to get a 93-98 HP D30 from an ZJ to get the 5x4,5 bolt pattern and high pinion front diff and put massive trusses to keep it straight in the rough stuff.
Any useful input would be greatly apreciated.

I'm doubting the 30 would hold up. I'd be looking for something like this one: http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/557805626.html
And certainly not a spool up front..
Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

That would be a very tempting axle if it would have the 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern. But I'm not sure if I could be able to find one over here since all the late 70's F pickups are 150's or 350's and you could probably count them on one hand. I live in www.everythingruststohell-land.com and old american trucks fell apart years ago over here. I can get a early 80's XJ, the one with 4 headlights and someone told me that some of them came with a D44 in front. Is there any truth in that?

You know PT it would be nice of you to go ahead andjust spit it out!!! Where the hell do you live?
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

I.m betting on Iceland and a 4.88 in a Dana 30 is doomed. The pinion will be so small and those diffs were never made for tires bigger than 33 inch. I run 35 BFG's and used to have an ARB in the front and it was too much for the Dana 30. I knew it wasn't up to wheeling so I took it easy, only used the locker with the tires pointed straight ahead and went easy on the gas and it still broke. I took the ARB out and went back to an open frt diff and so far its holding up. I,m soon going to Dana 60 with a Detroit locker in the rear and one day hope to find a stronger front end also. If you want to run 38,s you definitley need a lot stronger frt end, so like every other Jeeper basically shut up, open your wallet and pay <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />, hey It works for me anyway <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Green, your experience with the D30 is interesting to me. I run the original HP D30 on my 94 YJ, only I've replaced the passengerside 2-piece axleshaft with a one piece axleshaft; in fact I've replaced the original axleshafts with a beefier alloy to increase the axleshaft strength. I also installed the 297X u-joints. And, I have an ARB Locker in the D30 axle. The ring & pinion gears for both axles are 1:4.56. I have a Terra 60R (1 ton rated) rear axle. My Jeep buddies tell me that the 4.56 gears are now my weak-link in the engine-to-wheel torque distribution; Like you apparently did, I attempt to be smart about using the front locker, and use it sparingly. The HP D30 has held up effectively over many years on many difficult trails. I'm starting to believe my front axle is a little more tougher than I thought, and use the front locker more
frequently. The reverse-cut HP D30 is by design considerably stronger than the D30 axles used on pre-YJ Jeeps, at least, it's reported to be stronger. I'd always planned on upgrading the front axle to D44 or a D60. At this point, I'm thinking of staying with the HP D30. Seems to be working well, and I like the greater ground clearance with the little pumpkin on extremely rocky trails. However, It does make for a lighter front end; it's a lot like driving a farm tractor sometimes when climbing some of the monolithic rocks down here in the Rockies. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

By all accounts the Dana 30 is a tough little bugger, having the alloy axles certainly helps. In fact I may just go that route with mine. A lot rides on your driving experience and style, an automatic is also supposed to help. The first time the front end broke I was showing off to other "less equipped" trucks by climbing a hard packed ravine in a gravel pit, it was about 35 degrees steep and I was really gassing it and the front tires were throwing the odd 5 pin bowling ball sized rock when the left front knuckle broke. A lot of my off roading is done on whats called the Canadian Shield, its all granite, swamp and trees and the traction on the clean rock is pretty good. At the time I would only use the front locker when traction was lost and it always amazed me how well the CJ could climb with all 4 wheels locked, However the allan head bolts holding the ARB case halfs together all broke, not once but twice. Interestingly enough the knuckle has broke, a couple of axles have let go at the u joint, the ARB case has broke twice but the R & P in the Dana 30 has always been fine. Any way I',ve gone back to an open frt diff and rely on my good old Warn winch if trouble happens. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

D30 and 38s? not so much...35s with chromo shafts, it will take one hell of a beating.
D44 with 38s, barely and only if you were a conservative driver. add chromos and it will live for a while...
Get crazy on it and D60 becomes your only choice.

SD

Sorry Jim it wasn't supposed to be a puzzle, I thought I changed this in my info months ago. Location Iceland yes and wheeling over here doesn't include rock climbing or mud bogging unless you really really really want to. Thing is I'm pretty much set on using the D30 to start with and if it won't hang together a D44 will do it. A D60 would be overkill if you take my driving style into count, I take it slowly and crawl if needed instead of just flooring it and hoping it will be a good picture. All I'm worried about is blowing up a new set of gears because I used a hopeless carrier. And as for the axleshafts I will probably upgrade them if everything holds up.

Thanks PT So how much are you going to spend...and then throw away when it all goes south? Why not start with an axle that even MIGHT hold together?
If I was starting out to run them huge meats I'd be thinking about the worst possible result of the axle..
Yeah it is nice to think you will never be in a spot where the axle will come apart...but what are we to do when we get in a real situation? Simply get out and WALK HOME? No! We are gonig to use all the engine we have at the time.. That axle I posted for all to see would be a whole lot better to start out with than the 30.
Of course it is your choice but when it splodes please get back here with tears on your cheeks, so we can tell you "we told you so!"
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />