<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

"but what are we to do when we get in a real situation? Simply get out and WALK HOME? No! We are gonig to use all the engine we have at the time.." -BigJim
There are some situations where this is the easiest resolution and everything works out, but these situations are many times when axleshafts make that mortifying, dreadful clunk sound. Obviously, powerovering a trail obstacle is the novice's resolution!

That won't be a problem, if that happens I'll just find me a new one and I was wrong and you were right. Then I also demand a sticky on the front page saying the D30 is useless and should be used on zukis. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

But in all fairness to the D30 I've been driving a Mitsu with a 7.25" front diff wich is reverse cut and high pinion mounted with 38x15.5 mudders and after a few years it shows no sign of excessive wear. The big difference now with the GC is that I have roughly 135 more horsepower and the only thing I'm afraid of is that the ring and pinion will go seperate ways under high torque. After reading horror story's on the wire from you guy's in the new world it seems like I should use a 35" mod as a reference to my 38" when it comes to holding up on the trail.

Hey PartyTruck, I'll trade you a set of D60's for those fancy 8" flares from Gunnar

Only if you pay for shiping the D60's over here. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I don't have that kind of money