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The key to fixing head gasket problems is to figure out what is causing them to fail and fix that problem before running the engine after replacing the gasket. Assuming the previous gasket was of decent quality and was installed properly, its failure is only a symptom of the underlying problem.


Well...My truck did overheat 2 or so times due to the fact that my fuse running the fan wasn't big enough to hold the current needed. From there I think it slowly went down hill. ON Monday The gasket Really gave way and my engine bay looks like an oily nightmare. With chocolate milk for oil. I pulled over and had my dad tow me home that nigh. FUN, FUN.

I also didn't know that I was suppose to re-torque the Head Bolts after the 1st warm up, then after 500 miles or so. I also don't recall flushing out the bolt holes, so a bolt may have hydro-locked.

On Monday I ordered a new Head Gasket set from EB, and I also ordered some ARP head studs from Summit Racing. Hopefully the ARP is a worth while investment.

SO...Many lessons have been learned on what to do and what not to do.

Question. What is the torque FT-lbs for the ARP head studs. I don't want to crack anything or over torque? What are the tricks to putting these in, other than having dry bolt holes, and installing the last 2 after the head is on?

Also, does anyone know how to clean the EGR stuff?

Thanks in advance,
GOI <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

87 Toyota 4Runner-RV Head, Custom Grind Cam, Doug Thorley Header, Keith Black Pistions, 2 1/4" Magnaflow cat, Dynomax Exhaust
2003 Toyota Matrix XRS-Injen CAI