I saw the headgasket thread around here somewhere recently and intentionally didn't post to brag about how reliable my truck has been in fear of jinxing myself.

Well, guess what? It's headgasket time! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Here are the stats. It's a 22re with close to 270,000 miles on it. The first timing chain was replaced at 105,000 and replaced leaking valve guide seals. I put a TRD cam in at around 130,000 or so. Other than that, the motor has never been opened up and never given me any troubles.

Here is what I want to do... EB's new RV head with O/S valves, new head bolts (necessary?), new timing chain, new oil & water pump, clean/balance the injectors and replace the alternator fluid (it's never been changed). I'll put the OEM headers back on and get rid of those POS LC headers (free if you want to pick them up and torture yourself with their overpriced science project gone bad).

I'm having the labor done by a guy I have wheeled with a time or two that is a mechanic at a local Toyota dealership. I don't have the time, the room or the patience to do this myself. I think I probably could do it if I had to, but it would take months.

I'm also in California and have to be weary of the smog nazis. I fail every time and it always points to high combustion chamber temperatures. A new cat will help me squeak by, but obviously something else is wrong. EGR was new last year as were both O2 sensors. The truck pings quite a bit. When I did a compression test on it, the numbers were just a bit higher than stock. I don't have the info here in front of me but I want to say they were either 173 or 183 +/- 2. If stock was 170, then my readings were 173. If stock was 180, my readings were 183. I have tried everything shy of waving a dead chicken over my head while dancing at midnight under a full moon to get rid of any carbon build up and nothing has worked. So, while the head is off, that will be cleaned up.

Like everyone, I want a little more snort out of my truck. Putting my old head back on will save a bundle of money. Will the RV head make that much of a difference considering I have a TRD cam now and will the o/s valves have an adverse effect on smog stuff? I figure the injectors are due for a cleaning no matter what. I'm up in the air as to whether to go all OEM parts (aside from the head) or to source aftermarket parts. I know that EB sells good stuff and haven't heard a single complaint. However, it's hard to argue against OEM parts that have lasted this long.

What about boring the TB over by 3mm. Do people still do that? Is it worthwhile to do?

Any and all ideas or opinions are appreciated. If uncle sam doesn't like the money that I sent him last year and he decides to send a bunch of it back to me, I'll have this done much sooner.

Edit-I just talked to my wrench and he thinks going aftermarket, such as with EB's stuff, is the best way to go. That question is answered.

replace the alternator fluid (it's never been changed).

you are kidding or something......


alternator fluid lasts for ever.

Short version:
Don't mess with boring the TB. Not worth it. I think once you find the sweet spot with the setup you're going for, you'll be a happy fella.

What I did that could save you some money is, to just send your head to EB and have them rebuild it and install the new O/S valves. Then you will get back a super clean head that has been checked for any warpage etc... and will be ready to rock and roll. I also had them install the 261C Crawler cam to help give me a little more low end torque while they had the head. I had pretty much everything you mentioned done, and had the flywheel resurfaced while i was working in the area, alng with a new cluth, pressure plate, etc... Putting the engine back together was the easy part, the time consuming parts, where waiting for the machine shop to get there end done and that only took about a week to dip the block, bore it about .020" over (didnt have much where), resurface the block (took .006" off) and regular machine shop stuff. I have to say my truck does really good on inspection day, the guying testing it are always amazed at how clean it burns, they say it does better than most the newer vechicles. This was all done at 256K miles I now have 308K and is still doing ____ (dont want to jinx myself <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />) Let me know if you need any help, I took alot of pictures during my rebuild.

Good Luck

In the interest of time, I think I'm just going to buy the complete RV head from EB. I'm not sure which cam to go with though. I'll need to call him to see how the two compare with the TRD cam that I already have. If the RV head with o/s valves doesn't give me enough power over what I've got, I'll chrome something and slap a few stickers on to make up for it.

I'm assuming that a new water pump is mandatory (still stock after all these miles) and a new oil pump may be a good idea. Headbolts don't cost much and after thinking about it and talking to a few people, I'm going to have to go with Kewlynx and skip the bored throttle body.

The motor won't be coming out completely. If that were the case, I'd fix the rear main seal. It leaks probably 2 drops per month and it drives me absolutely insane. I don't like leaks. My vehicles have to be 'just right'.

As long as you are going to get a head w/OS valves, and you have over 270k on it, why not pull the block and have it bored .020 or .040 over (see what EB thinks is better) and install new pistons. You aren't looking at a whole lot of money to rebuild the bottom end. When you are done you should have an engine you wont have to touch for another couple 100k, and quite a bit more performance.

I have no intention of touching the block for 2 reasons. 1st and foremost is money. Since I'm not doing this myself, I have to pay somebody else and this all adds up. If I go so far as to pull the block, I may as well do a lot of things and it all adds up quickly. 2nd, the compression is really good. There are no indications that there is anything going south. I'd rather not screw with it. I've still got to pass emissions testing, too...

I'm hesitant to get too carried away with any buildup in a vehicle that I have to depend on. I don't want to tempt fate with cooling problems or reliability. The transmission has never been opened up either and it seems just fine. I'm not going to horse around with it either.

I'll talk to the guy that is going to do the build about it. I'll talk to EB about it when I order up the head and timing chain and solicit his opinion on cams, but unless I absolutely have to, I'd really rather not fool around with the bottom end. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" />

If money weren't an issue, a supercharged 3.4 would be stuffed under there without a second thought.

Want 3 reasons to open the block up?

My 87's #1 rod bearing spun at 160,000 miles. Heavy use, and a PO with a love for silicone.

My friend's cam broke in his 86 while we were building his EB'd engine. When we pulled the engine out it had 220,000 miles and the bottom was in great shape ***EXCEPT*** his rod and main bearings were scored.

Another member here decided to rebuild his 85's engine just for the heck of it... Had 223,000 miles on it, was selling his Taco and wanted to make it 100% good to go before it became his only mode of transportation. When we opened it up, it was the smoothest running 22RE I had messed with. The insides were immaculate! He's an older gent, and cares for his rigs well. Upon disassembly, however, guess what? His rod bearings were scoring, too!

Your rod bearings are on their last legs, I guarantee it. Your mains are not that much better off. At least pop the oil pan off and remove one of your rod caps to inspect the bearing... I bet you will find it's scored.

With the way this week has gone, I'm not betting on anything. I have priced pistons from EB and couldn't believe how cheap they are. I think my Wiesco kit for my old CBR was over 500 bucks-and that was at my dealer cost.

I hate to admit it, but as long as the damn thing is going to be torn down that far, I guess I may as well have everything checked out. At least I can have the rear main seal fixed. It's been leaking for years and driving me insane.

After all, it's only money, right? I'll make more eventually.

We've done just that and I'm really surprised to find a fair amount of wear on the mains. I was pretty sure that I would report back to tell you that you were wrong. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" /> The rod bearings appear to be in decent shape, but they will be replaced anyway. There isn't any point in diving in this far without giving it the full lobotomy.

I talked to Tod from engnbldr for a while on the phone yesterday and have some goodies on the way-Street RV head with a 261 cam and a timing chain kit. We BS'd on the phone for a bit and I've got to say he was a pleasure to talk to. I had called once before to talk about the RV head and he was incredibly helpful. I know of quite a few businesses that could learn a thing or two from Tod & Ted.

Anyway, the parts are gathering, the money is rapidly disappearing and I'm eager to get my 4 wheels back. I'll update this thread as progress continues if anything interesting comes up, otherwise I'll report back with excitement.

I'll have a virtually 'new' motor with a little more snort! Woo hoo!!!

Oh, I forgot to add... the motor is going to come out. That means the rear main seal will be fixed. It might have leaked just enough to leave a singl drop of oil once a week, but that was enough to send me to the funny farm. I can't handle my vehicles not being just right.

Ok, time to quit screwing around. Back to my previously scheduled workday. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />