If you're like me (and I know I am) and cheap, err I mean frugal, you can do it without the power bleeder as long as you have an air compressor with the little air gun blower thingy. Here's what you do:
-Hook up your catch container to whatever brake you want to bleed and crack open the bleeder. Gravity should bleed a little fluid out.
-Pull the top off of the master cylinder, top off the fluid.
-On the master cylinder cover there's a little "hat" with a rubber boot on it. Gently work the rubber boot off. You should see a small breather hole in the top.
-Put top back on master cylinder.
-Turn the pressure regulator on your compressor down to ~ 30 psi.
-Hook up the air gun blower thingy.
-Put the nozzle of the air gun blower thingy over the small breather hole in the master cylinder lid.
-Gently squeeze the trigger on your blower. The master cylinder lid should lift up a bit and seal itself on the ridge that it snaps over and the pressure from the blower should force the fluid in the master cylinder through the circuit.
-Watch the fluid level in the master cylinder and stop and top off as needed.
-When fluid starts coming out clear in your catch can, close up that bleeder and move to the next wheel.
-Repeat for the other wheels and LSPV.
-Top off master cylinder.
-Replace rubber boot on master cylinder lid "hat".
-Also works great for the hydraulic clutch.

The only thing you need to be careful about is running the master cylinder out of fluid and forcing air into the system, so keep a careful eye on the fluid level.

I have used this method on my T100 and it is a great (and cheap!) 1 man brake bleeding procedure. Yeah, I know I should have documented it with pics.

**Edit** This won't work with all brake and clutch master cylinders. It will work with the Toyota style ones that have the rubber lid that just snaps on. For other cars with s screw-on hard plastic cap maybe you'd have to buy a spare cap and drill a hole in it or something (still cheaper than a power bleeder).