It died again today after a week of no problems.

Now I have removed the rear portion of the ignition switch. Ends up to be an easy job.

There is one screw that holds the white housing and the rear portion. After removing the screw the entire rear housing comes out quite easy.

With a small screwdriver, pry the rear pigtail portion from the white housing. There are two small brass plates and corresponding brass points that were quite easy to sand and clean to improve the connection. When you remove the plates becareful not to loose the 4 small springs under them. At my age I almost did not see them.

Started like a champ. Hopefully, that was it. I don?t want to have to shoot it.

It has done it again!! Starter kranks, but no power to coil.

Coil Changed, Ignition Module Changed, Distributor Cap and Wires Changed, Ignition Switch repaired, Continuity checked from ignition switch, no codes from ECU, Capasitors not leaking, Battery good and I have a headache!!

Does anyone have an idea?

Maybe.... maybe not. Either the switch won't pass enough current - or there's a bad connection between the switch and the coil.

When you check the coil voltage, make sure the ignition switch is in the RUN position (not ACC position). If you have coil voltage in the RUN position, also check it in the START position.

Separate the wiring connectors at the firewall and near the fusible links (in front of the battery) and spray some contact cleaner in the connectors - cycle a few times.

If nothing helps, I'd still suggest replacing the electrical portion of the ignition lock/switch.

Frank

I give it a try. Thanks! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> When it is warm then I have no problem. Just in the first couple of minutes (at least at the moment), and only sometimes. By cold I mean -C to 10C or - to 50F. Is it possible that the ECU gives no signal but still works only intermitantly?

The ECU has nothing to do with primary coil voltage. That's pure key switch, wires and connectors.

Frank

how much current is he looking for here? hazard a guess?
would an ohmeter show the drop or should he load the circuit with a lightbulb to check if current is making it?

IIRC, the coil requires about 5A to load properly..... anyway, the wire should light a turn signal bulb.

Frank

I have 12V in the On Position and 8,9V start before the coil. Is that enough?

It just started!! Kept turning the key to start for just a fraction of a second, and then off. After 15 to 20 times it fired and started even though the battery was very week. Now that it is warm it starts with no problem.

Still the switch?

There is a PDF copy of the Diagnostic Procedures Manual. If you need a copy send me a PM.

No, 8.9v indicates that there's a problem in either the key switch or the wiring between the switch and the coil. With low voltage, you're also running the risk of burning out the starter solenoid switch.

If you can't identify a bad connector or wire, replace the electrical portion of the key switch.

Frank