I have not been able to find a bad wire or connection.

Just ordered the electrical part of the switch.

Mitsubishi parts here are EXPENSIVE here. Almost everything is available only at the dealer. Just the small electric piece is about $55.

The coil (Luckly they took it back when they found it was not the problem) was 350.00

I?ll let you know. Thanks Again. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

$31.62 list here.... discounted to ~$24. Prices have increased on some parts. I replaced my switch a couple of years ago and paid ~$18 or so at a local dealership.

A new switch is well worth the money spent as protection for the starter solenoid switch.

A few of us have added a generic Ford relay in the starter switch circuit as additional insurance to provide full battery voltage to the starter solenoid switch. You might want to consider it as well.

Frank

That makes sense. When this new switch works I would be interested in learning which relay this is and where is the best place to install it.

This week I will be happy to solved the start problem. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Patrick

Thanks. My knowledge is limited and everything helps. With all the help I receive here in the forum, in a few years I can help someone else. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Patrick

New ignition switch installed last Wednesday. Worked until today. Its colder out (33F), started and ran for a couple of minutes and then lost spark again. Waited about 10 minutes and then had intermitant spark. Eventually started and now runs.

Any more ideas? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

"Losing spark" is a different scenario than not having voltage at the coil.

If there's no 12v(+) at the coil, then there's a bad wiring connection somewhere in the dozen or so connections between the battery(+) and the coil.

If the coil has voltage, but at times doesn't produce spark at the plugs, there are several things that could be the reason..... ECU, coil, power transistor, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, distributor, wiring connections, etc. Since you've replaced most of these (how about the rotor?), that leaves the distributor, the ECU and associated wiring for both.

I'd replace the rotor (if it hasn't been replaced), cycle/clean the distributor harness connector at the firewall a few times. If that didn't work, I'd look for a distributor and ECU loaner to swap in and see if things improve.

The rotor is also new.

This morning for example, started perfect, drove for less than a half mile at approx 50mph and all at once the motor died immediatly. Lights, radio, heater, and starter working but would not start. About 10 minutes later tried to start and then cut off again. A couple of minutes later started immediatly and runs good now.

I was alone with no voltmeter so no way to control power.

Now that it has run for a few minutes, I can start and stop the motor with no problem as often as I want. It is just the first couple of minuutes. Has never cut off on me when motor is even a little bit warm.

You still need to verify whether the situation is "no spark" or "no coil voltage" when it won't start.

I'd also check the distributor wiring.

Frank

I went to Mitsubishi to let them check it out. First time it showed no codes but they said my timing was 10? out of line. I have no idea how it came out of adjustment. Adjusted timing and drove away. A couple of miles on the road and it cut off again. 10 min. later started and returned to Mitsubishi.

Checked the codes again, this time attaching two extra wires direct to battery terminals. Now it shows code 22 (Crank angle sensor).

Is it possible for the sensor to cause intermitant starting or running problems? They said I must replace distributor. Any suggestions? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />