Crap, 1st time my Trooper left me stranded. '89 II with the 2.6, no engine mods. On my way back from 4wheeling (or I should say being dragged by a strap all day), my Troop dies while "flying" down the hiway. After initial testing I discover voltage going to the coil, spark coming out of the coil, cap and rotor dry and in good shape, rotor spinning, but no spark to plugs? I must be missing something (that's what happens when I over-analize)(ha, I kinda said anal) Is there a control module in the dizzy or something? Thanks, Tom.

Check the continuity, or lack thereof, of your coil wire. Mine failed in nearly identical circumstances. The manual will have a value for the resistance range for the coil wire. Mine is out in the garage. If no one posts up the value I will do so after I get back from the dentist.

Thanks JP, and have fun at the dentist <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

The spec is 3.3 to 7.0 (k ohms).

Thanks Jim, I'll check that tomorrow. Tom.

Check for spark out of end of the coil wire by laying it approx 1/2" from engine block and cranking the engine over. You should have a nice, hot spark out the end.

If you do have good spark coming out of the coil wire but it doesn't make it thru the distributor, it's either a bad cap or grounded-out rotor. Or total failure of the spark plug wires. I'll bet on the rotor!

HTH.........ed

yea, coil wire checked w/in ohm specs, but cap/rotor/plugs/wires all have less than 1 year on 'em. I thought it'd be better to buy a Mitchell manual than a Haynes/Chilton, but not so sure; it's kinda hard to follow.

Any visual clues regarding bad rotor? I've seen bad caps before (HEI's) and bad grounds in the dizzy (again HEI's) so tomorrow maybe I'll pull the dizzy for a better inspection. Thanks, for the help, Tom.

Ed, you've got an RS!?!? I do too!! Kinda thinkin about selling it though as I want to chop something and feel an original RS is kinda rare. Maybe not worth anything, but still kinda rare <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />

It's possible for a rotor to short out internally then the spark travels from rotor right to ground via the distributor shaft. Sometimes you can find a burn mark on the rotor where it's arced to ground, other times there'll be no indication. Best thing to do in that case, if spark doesn't get thru the distributor, is just replace the rotor.

And yeah, I've still got the '89 RS, it's got a burnt exhaust valve but otherwise is in pretty decent shape and only 112,000 miles. Another project I need to work on as it's been sitting far too long! Maybe I'll stuff a 3.4 into that instead; the SWB Troopers sure are a Hoot to drive and a 3.4 would be Most Excellent!

Let us know what you find on your spark issue.........ed

P.S. Don't Chop the RS it'd be a crime against Isuzumanity!! !!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Thanks Ed, I'll check it manyana.
Don't worry, I couldn't chop that thing if I wanted; for some odd reason, we're in love ( <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> ) I bought it at an auction while just playing, but the auctioneer took me seriously (I was s'posed to buy a car for my wife).

K, well I had spark out the coil, but I checked it with a "tester plug" I made up. Putting the coil wire 1/4" from ground produced NO spark. Upon pulling the coil though, I found the wire for the condenser was frayed right by the condenser itself, with only about 3 strands connecting. Did I only change the condenser to scientifically see if that was the problem? naw, I changed the coil too.

The night that it was stuck, the troop kept overheating (pushing it pretty hard) To help cool it down, I would throw snow on the running engine, wich brought the temps down pretty good (cooling system is typical, cracked HG but full of antifreeze). I "think" that after doing this 3 times it may have caused a short in the coil, due to the rapid expansion/contraction. But the condenser problem was there too, so I replaced both.

MANY THANKS FOR THE INPUT