Eureka I think I got it! So after all the other work. I finaly worked up enough courage to switch on the A/C. Seams to work fine... Right.... So i poke a look through the grill and notice that the A/C Electric fan is only spinning slowly as the main fan is draging air through the radiator. So I poke a stick into the blades, sure enough its not powered up. So after some troubleshooting I confirm its toast. But its free spinning, no frozeen up. Anyhow I replaced it with an AutoZone $75 special. It works great. I disasembled the old fan and it was completely cooked inside, brusshes toast and melted.

So since the first thime this thing overheated several years ago the A/C was in use my guess is that it has been toasted all this time and noone (Including me) ever bothered to check ye old A/C fan.... Wow... I can not believe it. I'm guessing that all of the damage to the cooling system and leaks and broken fittings were all caused by the overheats due to the bad fan.

Thank you all for the help. - BTW: The Barsleak Block Sealer solved the heater core smell... Worked real good.

This is where taking it to the dealership would have been financially prudent (in the beginning)! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Most of the shops it has been into have been dealerships..... No one else would touch it.

So back to all you Gurus.... This thing is whipping me....

I have changed the water pump. T-Stat 180deg, Fixed the leaks. Pressure tested the cooling system. Replaced the fan clutch. had the compression tested and check for a head gasket leak. Flushed the cooling system and added a 60/40 Coolant/Water mix and tested down to -45, replaced the A/C fan. And after all of this I think it still runs hot. Just a 7 mile drive and it started to climb over the half way mark. What Can I do to improve cooling? This is killing me! Do I need to add a second radiator? Drill some holes in the T-stat? even running the A/C fan doesnÆt seem to bring it down once its up to temp. Is there a way I can check the actual temperature its running at? What do I do? I am at a loss!

To me, your symptoms are those of a blown head gasket. No extra cooling action can solve it. Not seeing steam in the exhaust does not dismiss the case as, if there is no accumulation of coolant while it is stopped, there is no way to see the difference with a few more drops of coolant added to the 1.3 gallons of water that go out as combustion byproduct for each gallon of fuel burned.

So.. I just drove down to the Yakima KIA Dealership a few mins ago. And they told me they "Will not work on a 1995' KIA Sportage" Told me to go to KIA.com for help. And that site is as useless as a tit on a bull.

Wouldent a blown gasket cause there to be bleed off presure on a compression test? Here is the main problem. This is a November 1994 Car. It was like a 2/3rds of a year release. It is the Single overhead Cam, I cant even find a gasket kit for it. I cant even get anykind of manual with the torq specs or anything. I would have this thing in the bag if I could find an FSM for a SOC 1995 Sprotage. I'm just not that experianced of a mechnic to stumble through it with out a manual.

Ok here is a question: What is the normal position for the gage that you all see... This one is always 1/2 a notch below the middle no matter what..

go www.kiatechinfo.com just sign up and it's free.

1/2 way up the gage is not hot in the red is, you don't want to run up near the red all the time, 1/2 way is not over heating, if you have a boil over there is a blockage somewhere, most rad or water leak sealers say drain system of all anti-freeze and refill with distilled water and run to seal, then drain and flush, then refill with anti-freeze, most are not compatable with anti-freeze. I might be able to get a gasket kit on ebay make sure it has all the gaskets you need, go over it again and again make sure it has all the gaskets needed.

A small leak ..small enough to avoid accumulation of coolant while at stop ... can cause a pressure loss not much different from "accepted" pressure differential between cylinders. I use compressed air applied to spark plug hole with piston correctly positioned to look for air bubbles at radiator cap..prefilled to the rim.

saw a rebuild kit no gasket kits, don't know if the rebuild kit is any good others might here, so don't just go buy it, Axe might know what to do. so don't just start tearing down your engine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ENGI...33620QQihZ002QQitemZ8036171025QQtcZphoto