Less that $50 for mine, not-balanced, though. I've hardly ever driven it at any speed in 4WD. Never noticed vibrations. At least, not that I could feel above the BSE <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

IIRC, mine was balanced. I've had mine in 4WD up to about 60 MPH and I don't hear/feel any vibrations.

I am thinking of throwing in a front dana 30 (HP from xj) and rear 44 from waggy or XJ. those aussie gears are some nice $$$. I would just want a solid axle up front and then work on the t-case.

If I were you, I'd avoid that Dana 30 like it was the plague. Those things are like glass. People around here go through them like they were M&Ms and everyone suggests either swapping one out for a 44 or simply not putting any money into them (i.e., locker, gears).

Search that one. Dana 30 is a terrible idea.

Ditch that.


Find you one of them. Waggy 44 6 Lug.

I guess its really on how you wheel. My 98 TJ had 36" TSL's with the hp30 and dana44 rear and didnt break nothing. The front was open and the rear was locked. the only problem I had was pullin a full size bronco out of a rock garden and had to beat the $#!T out of it to get it out and the only problem I had was I twisted some splines on the rear shaft. I guess to each is own.

I would love to find a grand wagoneer and snatch the axles out of it. I would even ditch the rear mitsu. to have matchin front and rear 44's on some 35s or 36's.

Agreed with the others..avoid the 30. Keep in mind if you go SAS your probably going to want a fixed yoke in the front so that means going with another T-case as the mitsu is slip yoke in the front.

I think there's one guy from Mexicali who did the SAS with the Mitsu case so I guess it can work ok. I think Frank from Oz also used the mitsu case. He mayy be able to give some good input on this.

Yea, avoid the 30s. Guys here go through them like water here, too.

I did a fixed yoke conversion on my '97 SAS Sport w/ the Mitsu transfer case. It works and it's not hard. Split the case, take out the front output shaft, have it drilled and tapped and make sure your new yoke (for the new drive shaft for the SAS) is set up to run a bolt through the middle into the output shaft. Guys that built my driveshaft just hacked the front off the stock yoke and welded a flange for a double Cardin joint back on and drilled a hole in the middle to match my bolt size. They also machined a short 1" or so spacer to fit inside the yoke so it didn't butt up against the output yoke seal. Glass smooth up to 55 Mph and its been three years and not a leak or problem. Which is good 'cause it was misserable with the slip yoke setup. The play in the slip yoke setup combined with the weight of the double Cardin was beating the daylights out of my t-case. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Good thing about going with the NP231 or dual 231s is you're increasing the length of your front driveshaft considerably which won't hurt with a SAS - especially with a lot of lift. My front drive shaft now is only like 17" long so the pinion sits at about 30 degrees. All this works fine - haven't had any issues - but with a longer drive shaft like I'll have in a couple weeks I'd be able to clock that pinion WAY down. Unfortunately, that means hacking all the brackets, stops, and the knuckles off, rotating the pinion and welding everything back on. Not EVEN going to attempt that - be easier and cheaper to build another axle. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> So, I'm just going to slap a 2-piece drive shaft in and call it good. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

Edward