Yea, avoid the 30s. Guys here go through them like water here, too.

I did a fixed yoke conversion on my '97 SAS Sport w/ the Mitsu transfer case. It works and it's not hard. Split the case, take out the front output shaft, have it drilled and tapped and make sure your new yoke (for the new drive shaft for the SAS) is set up to run a bolt through the middle into the output shaft. Guys that built my driveshaft just hacked the front off the stock yoke and welded a flange for a double Cardin joint back on and drilled a hole in the middle to match my bolt size. They also machined a short 1" or so spacer to fit inside the yoke so it didn't butt up against the output yoke seal. Glass smooth up to 55 Mph and its been three years and not a leak or problem. Which is good 'cause it was misserable with the slip yoke setup. The play in the slip yoke setup combined with the weight of the double Cardin was beating the daylights out of my t-case. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Good thing about going with the NP231 or dual 231s is you're increasing the length of your front driveshaft considerably which won't hurt with a SAS - especially with a lot of lift. My front drive shaft now is only like 17" long so the pinion sits at about 30 degrees. All this works fine - haven't had any issues - but with a longer drive shaft like I'll have in a couple weeks I'd be able to clock that pinion WAY down. Unfortunately, that means hacking all the brackets, stops, and the knuckles off, rotating the pinion and welding everything back on. Not EVEN going to attempt that - be easier and cheaper to build another axle. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> So, I'm just going to slap a 2-piece drive shaft in and call it good. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

Edward