As far as working on 22r's I really have no idea, I have a 3.0 and have not done a lot of work on the 22r. The answers I gave you are what I have learned from wrenching for over fifty years and they apply to just about all engines. Were is the coolant going, I have no idea, the same thing was happening on the 3.0 and I could not figure it out, no white smoke on start up but it was going somewhere. One day when I had it running in the shop I caught something out of the corner of my eye by the firewall so I looked over there, I saw a small drop of coolant forming on the heater control valve, and then it dripped. I looked underneath and there was no coolant on the floor so I let it run for about ten minutes and it dripped about three drops a minute. Then I remembered that the crossover pipe was right below it. The coolant was dripping on the pipe and evaporating. Put on a different valve and the problem went away. Only took me about six years to find it.

Well thanks for the info. I'm gonna take a good look at the truck in a couple days when I have some time to really dig around in there. I'm gonna clean off the front of the motor and keep an eye on it to see where abouts the oil looks to be coming from. Just makes it difficult to tell when the fans blowin it all over the place!!

So I've got another question. I'm gonna try to attempt a leak down test tomorrow. Figured I could do the poor mans version and just leave the cap off the rad and turn her over and wait for either a geyser or not, but I'm gonna try to do it right. Can TDC be found without removing the valve cover? Probably sounds like a dumb question, but I would rather not remove it for the sake of time. Also the firing order is 1-3 then 2-4 right? Want to make sure I got all the info right so I can get a good reading when I do this. Any informations or tips would be appreciated. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

PS: Tried like hell to access the archive on this one and got a headache trying!!!

If you go to the Toyota Tech Archive section, open up the lower left window to 'view all', and you'll find our old stuff on this subject.

On a front oil leak, if the front main is bad, it'll start leaking from behind the dust cover just aft of the crank pulley. Cleaning it up isn't a waste of time, as a clean engine disperses heat better. Yes, this can be changed w/o taking off the timing cover. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

On the coolant, there's a few things you can do passively:
* check the plugs. White usually indicates coolant
* Pressure test the cooling system
* Gases check cooling system-- kit at NAPA. Follow directions
* Leakdown test checks the top end, compression check is for the rings. Adjacent low numbers with a compression check generally point to a HG, but you'd follow up with a leakdown to make sure.
* If you KNOW it's leaking, there's one more check. Get some clean cardboard and lay it under the truck after you've had it running, right up to the firewall. Look for drips and follow upward.
* Get some coolant detector from NAPA and rent a black light. Add to coolant. Run engine while shining light around; leak will show up as flourescent green.

This will not hurt your cooling system. They also make one for oil, so pay attention to which one you grab, as the bottles look similar.

Go from there.

Thanks for the tips on the coolant leaking. I'm hoping the leakdown test will not show a HG leaking, but who knows. Still working on the archive. Either I'm all screwed up or that archive search doesn't work well. Probably me though, been a long few days! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Don't use the search; just go to the archive via the main index and open up the viewing window. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Alright for the results thus far. Went ahead and looked around for a leak down tester to borrow/rent without any luck. Guy at Schucks was nice enough to check in with the Napa down the street and found option #2, a block tester kit. Kinda freaked out initally when I ran the truck up to operating temp like the instructions said to and the uncapped radiator belched out a good amount of antifreeze. Called a local shop who recommended I try again and sure enough no geyser, just a nice flow of fluid into the motor. Placed the nifty tester on the radiator and pulled a ton of air through the tester fluid in the chamber. No change whatsoever!! Ran it again with new test fluid just to verify and again no color change so I'm feeling pretty good that the HG is intact. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I went ahead and changed the antifreeze, oil and plugs and ran her around the block with no temp issues, no power loss or white smoke(none noted to begin with). Here's the thing...there was still a tiny bit of build-up on the cap after the oil change, just like if the HG was blown. Outside temps have come up and I can see that I'm not blowin' white smoke. So I've decided that the buildup I'm seeing is either frosting when the temp drops at night or it's being caused by a oil additive I dropped in a short while back. I'm figuring that some of it was left in the top of the motor, even after the oil change and hadn't been consumed yet. Anyone noticed that before with an oil additive? It was added to help seal up a leaking oil gasket, brand name, just can't remember it. Truck ran strong all the way into work this morning and no build-up was noted on the inside of the oil cap and the dipstick looks good. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> Still haven't figured why the radiator overflow was empty, that's the next challenge. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Thanks to all for the information and help. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />