I had my throttle body bored out to 58mm by a local machine shop. I bored the plenum myself to match it. After I got it all back together and fired it up I noticed that the idle was quite high. So, I screwed the idle screw all the way in. It still idles at 1000-1100 after warm-up. Sounds like a vacuum leak to me, although I'm quite sure I put everything back together properly. I haven't done the vacuum leak test yet. Just wondering what other people think of this?

By the way, this is on a '94 22re 5-speed 4x4.

I should also add that I don't think there's any air getting by the butterfly, even when it's closed.

Assume you had a larger throttle plate made to fit the TB.

Perhaps the throttle stop is not set properly. Per the FSM, you let the throttle fully close then run the stop screw up to contact the linkage, then 1/4 turn more and lock it in place.

I had a new throttle plate made. I'll have to re-check the throttle stop screw, but it was set fine before the bore-out. Don't know why it would have changed.

Unless the new plate fits the bored out TB exactly the same as the old one (unlikely) you'll need to reset the throttle stop.

What's the cold fast idle setup on the late model variety? Any chance you need to burp the coolant on the TB?

What did it cost you to have it bored and the plate made?
Taper or straight bore?

The aixiliary air valve (idle-up valve) was the reason I did all this in the first place. I figured since I was going to go that far (replacing it) I mine as well have the T.B. bored out. The air valve has wax that when heated up by the warming coolant will close the valve.

I'm positive the coolant doesn't need to be burped. It cost me around $130 to get the bore done, and they did not taper it.

$130! Yikes! My V-6 throttlebody conversion was much cheaper than that, but I guess there was probably a bit more labor involved. I agree with 4Crawler that the basics like throttle plate adjustment should be addressed first.

Sure beats the ~$300 that LC wants exchange for a bored TB.